Quote:
Originally Posted by ray_mcavoy
Yes, the dark blue (oil light) and brown (generator light) wires are no longer used with the gauge cluster so you can save those terminals and re-use them for the #1 & #12 ammeter wires.
When it comes to re-using the terminals, I have in the past tried prying open the crimps and re-crimping them onto new wires but that is rather difficult to do without damaging the terminals. A better approach would be to simply leave a couple inches or so of wire attached to the terminals when you cut them off the dark blue & brown wires. That should give you enough length to splice them to the new wires.
Also be aware that the other end of the brown wire will still be connected to the alternator / voltage regulator. So insulate the cut end with some electrical tape or heat shrink tubing so it can't touch anything under the dash and create a short circuit.
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Pewww....I'm so happy to hear this. This is exactly what I did. I took a chance and did this while waiting for a response from someone lol. Thx so much for all your help!!
Only thing left to do is to remove my old oil sending unit, and install the copper oil line in its place. Then hook it up on the gauge side as well.
I replaced my old dash pad while I was in there what a PITA !! Thankfully someone had left off the middle bolts near the radio. It was an original pad. A small quality control paper fell out dated 1971 when I pulled the old pad off.
Should have everything buttoned up today. Really hoping everything works as it should.
Also noticed recently a burning wire smell in the engine compartment before I started this cluster conversion. The fuse able link near the battery seems to be eminating this smell. What does this mean? I don't have any special non factory accessories. Just a custom auto sound head unit but not hooked to an amp. Recently replaced my alternator with the same one that had been in there for years.
What happens if my fuse able link goes out???