Quote:
Originally Posted by ray_mcavoy
You're welcome!
That fusible link near the battery protects the main feed wire from burning up in the event of a short circuit or major overload. The fact that it's getting hot enough to give off a burning wire smell could be an indication of an overloaded main feed wire. But that's not very likely given that a Custom Autosound head unit is the only non-factory accessory in your truck.
A more likely cause would be a weak or corroded connection that is adding extra resistance to the circuit and causing the wire to heat up. So I'd recommend checking the junction block where the fusible link attaches to make sure it's free of corrosion, the ring terminal on the fusible link is in good condition and still crimped securely, and that the junction block nut is tight. The other end of the fusible link (where it attaches to the main feed wire) is usually pretty well insulated/sealed at the factory, but could still be subject to corrosion (especially since it is near the battery). Unfortunately, you'd have to cut away the factory plastic insulation cylinder to inspect that end. And it's possible that the fusible link wire itself has some internal corrosion that can't be seen due to it's insulation. If that is the case, you'd have to replace the fusible link. Use one that is the same size and close to the same length as the original.
If it burns out, you will lose all battery power to the truck. If the engine happens to be running at the time, it will likely stay running off the alternator (provided the fusible link didn't blow due to a short circuit in the main feed wire). But if it's not running, you won't be able to start the engine if that fusible link is blown.
Also, with the addition of the gauge cluster, the main feed wire becomes a shunt for the ammeter (battery gauge). A blown fusible link leaves the shunt open circuit which has the potential to pass a damaging amount of current through the meter movement and it's wiring (the wires you are adding to the #1 & #12 spots). That is one of the reasons it is important to have the 4 amp inline fuses in those wires. They'll blow before enough current flows to damage the meter or wiring.
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Thx so much for all your help!
Got everything finished today and everything seems to be working fine so far.
This was one of the hardest most stressful projects I've done so far to my truck. But I have a sense of accomplishment now and my cluster looks great. Will be driving it at night this evening. Hoping all the cluster lights look good.
A few things I'm not sure about since I've never had gauges before.
The oil pressure is closer to the H (high) all the time. I have a crate engine. 330 HP - 350 with vortec heads. Is this normal for the pressure to be on the high side?
Also the battery gauge reads closer to the C rather than in the middle. Battery and alternator are both new. Is that normal ?
Tach acted funny (dropping off or jumping) a few times but then stopped. Now it seems to be acting normal. I installed a tach filter.
When I do anything electrical such as turning on the headlights to tach needle jumps a tiny bit. Normal ?
Again, thanks so much for all your help. I couldn't have done this without you, vettevet and TBONE.
Love this site!!!