Re: New parts, now won't start
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrturner1
When I pulled the old one out it was pointing at #6 so I figured just position the new one the same way. I must have put it back in wrong. Another thing I did was take the distributor cap off and removed the actual rotor when I put new weights and springs in. Can the rotor be re installed pointing either way or is there only one way to screw it back on?
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Whatever book your reading or whoever is giving you tuning instructions doesn't have a clue ! Why would you change the weights and springs before you have it running just as it came out of the box ? It could have been perfect out of the box I'm starting to get a picture of your thinking , lighter weights weaker springs increased timing = faster acceleration ? You've got to get off this race engine mindset and just let the engine run and drive . Your on the fast track to a bunch of cool new parts sitting on a blown lower end with an ever widening pool of oil in the garage .at this point you should be the timing genius ! ,do you have a $10.00 remote starter button yet ? I think by looking at your distributor your at least 4 teeth off .start over from # 1 tdc .never turn the engine over when doing a distributor change ,always Mark the intake with a piece of tape to show rotor position and if the new one doesn't just drop back in the most you need to do is use a long screwdriver to turn the oil pump back a hair for it to easily go back where it was . Always work from #1 tdc
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1967 Factory short bed - Old school
'71 - 350 / 4bolt / 487 heads / Edelbrock C3BX
Muncie M-22 4 speed / Hurst Comp plus
Factory 12 bolt posi 3.73 / 255-70-15
Smoothed firewall / Factory cowl induction
Power disc brakes / power steering / 3.5-5" drop
Last edited by Grumpy old man; 06-22-2016 at 11:05 PM.
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