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Old 06-22-2016, 10:42 PM   #21
Grumpy old man
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Gods country East,Tn
Posts: 8,545
Re: New parts, now won't start

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrturner1 View Post
When I pulled the old one out it was pointing at #6 so I figured just position the new one the same way. I must have put it back in wrong. Another thing I did was take the distributor cap off and removed the actual rotor when I put new weights and springs in. Can the rotor be re installed pointing either way or is there only one way to screw it back on?
Whatever book your reading or whoever is giving you tuning instructions doesn't have a clue ! Why would you change the weights and springs before you have it running just as it came out of the box ? It could have been perfect out of the box I'm starting to get a picture of your thinking , lighter weights weaker springs increased timing = faster acceleration ? You've got to get off this race engine mindset and just let the engine run and drive . Your on the fast track to a bunch of cool new parts sitting on a blown lower end with an ever widening pool of oil in the garage .at this point you should be the timing genius ! ,do you have a $10.00 remote starter button yet ? I think by looking at your distributor your at least 4 teeth off .start over from # 1 tdc .never turn the engine over when doing a distributor change ,always Mark the intake with a piece of tape to show rotor position and if the new one doesn't just drop back in the most you need to do is use a long screwdriver to turn the oil pump back a hair for it to easily go back where it was . Always work from #1 tdc
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1967 Factory short bed - Old school
'71 - 350 / 4bolt / 487 heads / Edelbrock C3BX
Muncie M-22 4 speed / Hurst Comp plus
Factory 12 bolt posi 3.73 / 255-70-15
Smoothed firewall / Factory cowl induction
Power disc brakes / power steering / 3.5-5" drop

Last edited by Grumpy old man; 06-22-2016 at 11:05 PM.
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