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**MikeB** · 07-18-2016, 11:50 AM

Why mess with additives or the latest formulation (reduced ZDDP) Rotella T when you can spend a little more for oil with the correct levels of zinc and phosphate DESIGNED IN to the additive package, not added on? Depending on what your oil has in its additive package, pouring in a bottle of ZDDP Plus could cause the zinc and phosphate levels to be too high, causing more harm than good. You can google "ZDDP levels" and read for hours on end.

I like Driven Racing Oils, formerly Joe Gibbs Driven.
http://www.drivenracingoil.com/
Their products are not cheap, but neither are Lucas products, a company that was started after the owner supposedly found a 55 gallon drum of some magic elixir in a building he bought. Sure, I'm buying that story.

If your engine has stock or mildly upgraded valve springs, and you used a good break-in oil, you'll be OK with Valvoline Racing Oil in the silver jar. Or Mobil 1 10w30. In fact, the 350 in my son's 69 Chevy pickup has a mild flat tappet Edelbrock cam with matching valve springs that have 80# seat pressure. After break-in in 2004 with regular oil and CompCams P/N 59 break-in lube, we have been running a variety of name brand 10w30 oils, and the engine has been running strong since then. That's probably because the vast majority of cam/liter wear happens during break-in. After that you're good to go, at least with mild cam and valve springs.

BTW, google "Lucas Oil" followed by the words "scam", "stabilizer, "truth", etc. My favorite Lucas product is their Stabilizer which is 80wt oil and soap, which is actually listed in the MSDS data sheet! I wouldn't trust this company's products to lubricate even a bicycle chain.

From Business News Daily:
Lucas attempted to make better oils that would help prevent his trucks from breaking down while also maximizing their performance for his fleet. To accomplish this, Lucas began searching in chemical junkyards for the right ingredients to mix and match to create his products. Those searches, combined with his existing mechanical knowledge, led to the first official Lucas Oil Products, and a test of these products on his own trucks proved the formula worked.

"I never went to college, but there are times when you are taught something and you are told this is the way it is and you believe it enough that you close your mind to any other thoughts," said Lucas. "Eventually I learned the way you were supposed to do it, but by then I already knew I was way ahead of everyone else."

07-18-2016, 11:50 AM	#15
MikeB Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Texas Posts: 3,671	Re: Zinc oil additive Why mess with additives or the latest formulation (reduced ZDDP) Rotella T when you can spend a little more for oil with the correct levels of zinc and phosphate DESIGNED IN to the additive package, not added on? Depending on what your oil has in its additive package, pouring in a bottle of ZDDP Plus could cause the zinc and phosphate levels to be too high, causing more harm than good. You can google "ZDDP levels" and read for hours on end. I like Driven Racing Oils, formerly Joe Gibbs Driven. http://www.drivenracingoil.com/ Their products are not cheap, but neither are Lucas products, a company that was started after the owner supposedly found a 55 gallon drum of some magic elixir in a building he bought. Sure, I'm buying that story. If your engine has stock or mildly upgraded valve springs, and you used a good break-in oil, you'll be OK with Valvoline Racing Oil in the silver jar. Or Mobil 1 10w30. In fact, the 350 in my son's 69 Chevy pickup has a mild flat tappet Edelbrock cam with matching valve springs that have 80# seat pressure. After break-in in 2004 with regular oil and CompCams P/N 59 break-in lube, we have been running a variety of name brand 10w30 oils, and the engine has been running strong since then. That's probably because the vast majority of cam/liter wear happens during break-in. After that you're good to go, at least with mild cam and valve springs. BTW, google "Lucas Oil" followed by the words "scam", "stabilizer, "truth", etc. My favorite Lucas product is their Stabilizer which is 80wt oil and soap, which is actually listed in the MSDS data sheet! I wouldn't trust this company's products to lubricate even a bicycle chain. From Business News Daily: Lucas attempted to make better oils that would help prevent his trucks from breaking down while also maximizing their performance for his fleet. To accomplish this, Lucas began searching in chemical junkyards for the right ingredients to mix and match to create his products. Those searches, combined with his existing mechanical knowledge, led to the first official Lucas Oil Products, and a test of these products on his own trucks proved the formula worked. "I never went to college, but there are times when you are taught something and you are told this is the way it is and you believe it enough that you close your mind to any other thoughts," said Lucas. "Eventually I learned the way you were supposed to do it, but by then I already knew I was way ahead of everyone else." __________________ Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 36 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- converted from 250-six to roller cam 350, Vortec heads -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB, 305, TH350C -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! Last edited by MikeB; 07-18-2016 at 12:17 PM.