[dsraven]

different truck by the patina on the door and fender. that is subject to change though depending on when the pics were taken.

Mike (gecz28)
remember that when wheel spacers are used to bring the wheel out more the steering geometry is going to change. the ball joints centreline and steering knuckle work together with the wheel offset to place the tire contact patch inline with the balljoints. when the wheels are turned (vehicle stationary) the tire will scrub a spot on the floor and it will be a circular spot. with the wrong wheel backspace, wheel spacers or a terribly wrong sized tire diameter the wheel will actually move in a circular arc as the wheels are turned. the tire will leave a trail in the shape of an arc when the vehicle is stationary. not that great for alignment and driveability. maybe that is one reason to use a wheel track width that is more correct for the fender to wheel spacing you want. if you want the wheels tucked way inside the fenders then an s10 is maybe something to look at. there are lots of aftermarket suspension parts available for the s10, (monte carlo is same I think). longer control arms to put the wheels further apart,(that can cause bump steer if you don't know what you are doing so be mindful of that) and it is all at a cost, mind you. if you want the wheels to be closer to the fender lip then a 1/2 ton is maybe better for you. stronger as well, bigger brakes without buying aftermarket, stronger ball joints, tie rod ends, beefier stabilizer bars, frame rails etc etc. I m sure you get the point, but you will do what you want. that is what hotrodding is about. just remember to build it safe, others drive on the same road as you do. I would suggest that you research some steering geometry pages before you pull the trigger, either way. if there is one close by you could see that would be good as well. private message the guys on here and other forums to get the inside scoop on what to do and what not to do.