[dsraven]

before you start,
-try to remove the body and set the frame up on stands for ease of working. - measure the frame for sag, square etc. you can use masking tape to put a centre mark on each crossmember (side to side centre) and then run a string line or laser from the front to the rear to see if the centres line up. do a corner to corner measure as well to check for out of square. the assembly manual has the original measurements and points to measure from if you have that. these old trucks have sometimes had a rough life. looking back at my build the frame was actually bent behind the rear wheels. i would have been better off to have cut that section off in front of the wheels and built a nice c notch rather than spend all the time to straighten it. I needed one anyway.
-the front end I bought was a TCI MII unit which is several parts that weld onto the frame. one cross member and then some brackets for the upper control arm mounts. I researched and it looked pretty simple by the youtube posts. when the parts came in the cross member didn't come close to fitting the angle of my frame. the support line was not much help and they were not about to give me any specs or measurements so I could get it right. being a mechanic I researched geometry for MII and figured out what it had to look like in the end so it is all fine now. it was many trial and error days to get to that point. that is why I mentioned to buy a front IFS (if that is how you plan to go) that has a one piece cross member where the upper and lower control arm pivot mounts are already welded on, with the correct geometry and antidive angles etc, so all you have to do is mount the cross member to your frame and assemble the aux parts to it. it is important to get the frame level, side to side, and set at the correct rake angle (front to rear angle) that you decided on before you weld anything in. I modified some jack stands to accept some threaded rod on top. that way the frame can be bolted onto the rod and the rod can be adjusted to get the frame where it needs to be and then locked down. no accidental movements that can be disasterous if not noticed. I reccomend a digital level for this job. i know, guys do it with a bubble level and the truck drives awesome. I just know I had a good quality bubble level and got the frame dead on. then checked with the digital level and it was not dead on. just saying, you get out you put in. digital level is a good investment and you can always sell it after to recover some of the cost if need be.they are handy to get the frame level as well as at the 2 or 3 degree rake angle (that I wanted) where you would be guessing with a bubble level. when installing the cross member you can use the level onthe pivot bolt (installed by itself) to get the cross member level to the ground. more accurate that putting the level on the cross member top side which may not be totally flat after the manufacturing and welding process. remember to do tack welds and then check then when final welding do small welds and allow to cool between. welding distorts things. see some info below if you have time. the frame measurements are a little fuzzy on the 59 page. not sure the year of the other diagram, could be a 56 which is a little shorter out front.

ok, end of rant
hope it helps