Quote:
Originally Posted by B. W.
X2 - sounds like a simple clutch adjustment is all you need. You said it was converted to hydraulic, have you had to add any fluid? If so, you have a leak (you need to fix the leak) and you have air in the system, you need to bleed it just like a brake system (except clutch systems are almost always more difficult to get the air out of!)
on you list:
1. forget the warped clutch, not an issue here
2. input shaft seal - not your problem. It is easy to check - pull the dust cover off of the bottom of the flywheel & look for oil. This will cause a clutch to slip but will NOT keep it from disengaging when you push in the pedal.
3. throw out bearing - will be very noisy when bad. With the original manual adjustment you can still get enough adjustment for the clutch to work properly even with a bad throw out bearing. With your hydraulic system - don't know. I have seen bearings come completely apart & the inner race slips inside the pressure plate. You can visually check this also with the dust cover off.
4. I have no idea what a power shaft bearing is but is is not part of this transmission
5. synchros - not your issue. No synchros for 1st or reverse, chances of all the others going bad at the same time are slim
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A few weeks ago I was trying to adjust and pressed on pedal too hard-bent the pushrod for master cylinder. I have taken MC apart 3 (4? it's all a blur)times to get air out and replace bleeder valve in slave. Pedal not squishy at all.
Today I adjusted it out so it would go into 3 and 4-hard to get into R but with lots of pressure it would go. Test drove, STILL slips.
Here's a pic of pressure plate. Not sure but I think it looks ok?