[Dannny B]

The wheel cylinder kits for the rear axle are Dorman 19381.
The rear axle oil seals are National 6358.
The wheel studs are Euclid, E-5683
I put the rear brakes all together and the drum wouldn't go on. I took it all apart and put each wheel stud in the lathe. 4 had runout. I bought 6 studs and pressed in 6 new and 4 old. It STILL didn't want to go together. I used a BFH and got the drum and wheels on.
I have no idea how they assembled it previously with so many bent studs.
I put it all together and bled the brakes,,, good pedal.
Next day, no pedal. It turns out that one of the front, stepped wheel cylinders had pits in the larger diameter. It didn't leak previously because, the piston and cup sat out just enough to be off the pits. When I put in new shoes, it pushed the cup back to the pits.

White Post Restorations will repair ANY hydraulic brake cyl. They press in a brass sleeve and hone it to size. They give a lifetime warranty. They charge $ 125 per wheel cyl. I considered the various options for repair. I ended up filling the back part of the cylinder with JB weld. There isn't any mechanical load so, why not?
I just need to bore it in a lathe and re-assemble.

The front NAPCO diff was almost out of oil when I drained it. It was oily around the pinon seal. I went to Hooper Rear End Exchange in Sun Valley 91352
I told them that the front diff looked pretty close to what the rear diff looked like. Amazingly, the guy brought out a seal that fit perfectly.
ABI 411330N the original seal was a C/R 25966

The headligth switch, of all things, is giving me fits. Sometimes the knob/shaft would lock in,,, sometimes not. I bought 3 new ones that did the same thing. Still working on that one.
The pinon seal installs from inside the housing. it all comes apart easily. I read the various literature and retorqued the pinion nut to 350 ft. lbs.
I still have to run up to oregon and get my second bed to do the stretch to 10ft. That's the next big project.