[mr48chev]

You absolutely do not try to "build in extra caster" when you weld a stub on or you just screwed the whole works up and anyone who suggests that is wrong. The subframe has to sit at the exact same angle when connected to the truck frame as it was connected to the donor rig. Set it so you add caster and your frame horns start angling up in the front rather than running straight out

Caster shouldn't be a problem and you don't use offset shafts to get more caster you use offset shafts because the frame has collapsed in at the control arm mounts and you need to increase the camber. One can "roll" the frame meaning put it on a front end rack and chain down the outside frame rails and jack it up in the middle with a bottle jack to push up on the middle of the crossmember and out on the control arm mounts. That usually holds it for a few years of normal daily driving. If you are replacing A arm bushings using the offset shafts makes a lot of sense though.


It's not a straight axle an you just don't need that much caster to have it drive straight an be able to handle the highways. Both of my subframed rigs had between 1 and 1.5 degrees positive caster and both cruised nicely at 80 and would stay in their lane for a long ways hands off on I 84 in Idaho where you can see straight road ahead of you for 30 miles in some places.