[dsraven]

black is one of the hardest to wax because of that issue. here is what I have done in the past

wash and wipe dry
clay bar
compound as required
apply polymer wax with damp applicator
buff
drive it

more details
in a shady spot out of the direct sunlight (because direct sunlight will dry everything too fast and leave water spots. water spots actually etch the paint and that is a good reason to wipe down your truck after a wash job)

wash unit with normal car wash soap and rinse off

towel off the unit with a microfibre towel or terry cloth towel. I prefer microfibre myself because they wring out better

using detailing spray and a clay bar, lightly spray a small area, like a couple of feet square, with the spray and then rub the clay over it in a lengthwise pattern. the same direction as the body lines on the truck. this gets rid of all kinds of stuff that is stuck to your paint and you don't see it. you can feel it if you rub your hand slowly over the surface before clay bar and then after you will feel the difference. after you have the area cleaned off with the clay bar wipe it off with a damp cloth and travel on to the next area. read the directions on the clay bar package for more details on that. remember to turn the bar over lots because those little pieces of stuff from the paint are now turning your bar into a fine sanding bar if you don't. it is a good idea to use a smaller chunk of the bar for that reason. you will likely see the bar turning a different color as you pick up stuff from the paint surface, thats normal

now that it is clean you can wax the unit without worry of grinding the pollutants stuck to the paint deeper into the paint.you can use masking tape on any trim to keep the wax off the trim parts. use the same tecnique of following the body lines because the strokes don't show as much this way. using circular motions emphasizes the swirls when the sun shines on the panel. if you have access to a random orbit polisher they work well with a foam buffing pad (there are different grades of buffing pads as well. like sandpaper) and don't burn the paint like a straight rotary polisher, unless you have practice with one of those. let the buffer do the work and allow the pad to turn so you don't get swirl marks. if you have some small scratches in the paint you can usually rent a buffer and use some ultimate compound with the foam pad. read the directions on the bottle. I have buffed lots of vehicles in my day, using several different grit of compounds each time until complete. I find the ultimate compound by meguires does most vehicles in one shot because the synthetic compound starts course and wears down fast to finish in a finer compound. read the directions or youtube it. I like to use the polymer wax, like mothers synthetic wax, because it lasts longer between wax jobs. you can use the fx spray in between to maintain the shine but the wax is so easy to put on and polish up you could really just put another coat of wax on. google it for more info. I find the meguires tech wax didn't last as long. some detailers would strip the vehicle first using a wax stripper, then clay bar, then compound with buffer, then wax with buffer and finish with a polish. use a small plastic detailing brush to get any wax out of the cracks and crannies when you are all done.