Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnJ@RideTech
The outer sleeve on the bushing will press into the control arm just as it would on an arm that is not threaded. The installation process is no different, it still is a metal to metal fit.
So there are benefits of going with a press in over a screw. Over time, as the threads work back and forth, your alignment would change even if it is just minimal. It was a poor design from the factory and GM realized it. That's why they changed the design in 73.
Our kit addresses the issues associated with the screw in design and eliminates the need for those components.
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Actually I'll have to disagree with that. GM didn't think it was a poor design as 1 ton trucks used this design up to '91 (depending on body style). They are very heavy duty and if kept properly greased, they have almost no wear. Most wear was from neglect. The rubber bushings came about because of two primary reason, cost, as they were cheaper to make and assemble and comfort. Rubber bushings allow for deflection which made harshness and vibration less. Trucks were becoming more "plush" especially the 1/2 ton models. As the rubber aged, they deflect even more (to the point of rubber becoming missing) and alignment would change much more than the screw in bushing.
Since the screw in style arms only have one "ear" that the bushing rides in, I would question anyone just pressing in bushing into these arms as there is no inner ear like the later model arms have. I would think welding the sleeve in would be a requirement, not an option. Eventually these shells would start to walk in the opening under load, if not welded to the arm. Upper arms are not as critical as they don't see the same loading but lower arms take the brunt of the forces.
My .02 worth. Not looking to get into a pissing match but I do want to make sure people understand what they are getting into when modifying suspensions. Just because something can be done, doesn't mean it should be done.