Quote:
Originally Posted by AussieinNC
The "proportioning valve" you mentioned...does it have a switch with a wire on it?
Remove the wire and unscrew the switch from the block...then re-bleed the system with the switch out of the block. Bleed in the following order...drivers rear, passenger rear, passenger front, drivers front.
When done, put the switch back in place and attach the wire. Road test and let us know the result.
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I pulled the switch and tested it to be sure it was working (grounds out when pin drops) and it is functioning as it should. Based on this and the fact that I get a decent flow of brake fluid out of all bleeders I feel sure the piston is positioned properly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by toolboxchev
Do the front brakes, 70 percent of stopping power is located them.
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Parts are on the way. I hope this is the only issue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardJ
Not sure what you mean by additional braking power, but that suggests you may still have air in the lines.
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I'll bleed them again and double check the master cylinder for air.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardJ
Was that issue the same with the old as well as the new MC?
Was the MC piston diameter on the old MC the same as the diameter of the new MC?
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Both master cylinders were doing about the same thing. The piston diameter on the old one is 1.125". I did not measure the new one, but the specs say it is also 1.125". Also, multiple sources show it to be the correct cylinder for the application.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardJ
The booster pin is adjusted by taking the measurement of the hole depth of the MC piston. There are special tools made to do the job, but you can check the measurements in a number of ways. The tools actually make a comparison, without an actual measurement.
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I will figure out how to check this when I re-bleed the master cylinder. The tool runs about $75 on eBay. I hate to spend that to do a job only a couple of times.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardJ
Bleeding the brakes will push the switch piston front to back or to the end opposite the end you are bleeding. If it is your intention to manually try to re-center the piston, why pull the switch before bleeding. Most people I know bleed the brakes, then use the pressure to re-center the piston. Simply crack the opposite end and push on the brake pedal until the light goes out. Done.
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Do you have any concerns with using a vacuum pump to bleed the brakes? Then I do not have to worry about the piston moving off center.