Quote:
Originally Posted by bob8619
I eliminated the distribution block and bench bled the master again. Then hooked up the lines and gravity bled and then bled with a helper. Right rear, left rear, right front, left front. All of my shoes are new and adjusted til they are just rubbing the drum. Pedal still feels spongy to me, I have to give it a ton of pedal to just barely slow down and I couldn't lock the brakes up if my life depended on it. Thankyfully the reservoirs in the master are not dropping nor rising anymore.
Do you think theres just air in the lines thats being stubborn or what?
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On the drum brakes, one thing I found on mine is when you put everything back together and adjust the brake shoes you can’t just adjust them out until they start rubbing and quit. You have to adjust them out as far as they will go and you cannot turn the wheel or drum at all. This centers the whole assembly in the drum. (I even tap around the drum as I tighten them to help them center themselves) Then you back them off until the wheel/drum just turns, and stop. If you only adjust them out until they start rubbing and quit, the first time you press on the brake pedal the brake shoe assemblies will center themselves and you will have too much clearance between the shoes and the brake drum. I also put three lug nuts on backwards to hold the drum tight against the axle on the rear when adjusting them.
I know it is a pain in the butt to try and hold the self adjusters off of the adjuster wheel while you back them off, but this is the only way I could get my drum brake shoes adjusted correctly.
Putting the vehicle in reverse and backing up while pumping the brakes will cause the automatic adjusters to activate with each pump of the pedal. The problem is if the shoes are not adjusted out as much as possible to start with, it will take a lot of backing and pumping to get them adjusted all the way out.
LockDoc