Buy extra tubing! Be patient. Get a bender that does more than 90* bends, 180* is ideal. One reason to buy a more expensive bender is you can bend thicker tubing and most of them allow for a shorter distance between the tubing end and the start of the bend. I prefer the style pictured below for small lines like brake lines as the small head allows your bends to be closer to each other. (I have never tried the coil spring variety of benders) Find out how thick the wall thickness the bender will bend steel tubing, unless your doing stainless then you will have to step up as the cheap benders won't do it. I have found it difficult to make practice bends with coat hangers as it is a much smaller diameter. I prefer to use chunks of copper wire in the correct diameter. You can usually get wire drops from an electrical contractor for nothing. As far as material, nickel copper is the easiest to work with but, spendy compared to steel. I would avoid aluminum on your tranny lines as some transmissions can put over a hundred psi and that exceeds most aluminum line ratings. Flaring tools can be frustrating if the clamp won't stay put. Better quality, better clamping. Use oil on the mandrills when flaring and on the treads of the clamp wing nuts. Oh and be patient.
https://static.summitracing.com/glob...00501_w_ml.jpg
P.S. l like the tool box.
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help.

RIP Bob Parks.
1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo
If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place
The WMB repair thread
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377