we are assuming your truck is a stock 6 cyl with a stock 4 speed trans, stock pedal assemblies?
if you want to go with discs up front you would be well advised to go with a power brake unit as well simply because most other cars on the road have power brakes so they are gonna stop quicker than you and the chances of a rear ender with you to blame is more.it is basically the same amount of work anyway because you will need to change the master cylinder to be disc front drum rear and a dual system. you need to seperate the front and rear brake systems so that means some new brake lines to connect to the master and possibly some proportioning valve work or residual valves (more important with the frame mounted master because the master is more level with the brake wheel cylinders and calipers so a 2 lb unit may be needed to keep a slight pressure in the wheel cylinders, check with the supplier). a master cyl for drum brakes usually has a residual valve built into the master cyl so you may want to check the kit you buy to see if that is the case.
if going with power brakes you will need a vac line with a check valve to the booster, but the check valve is usually in the fitting at the booster. a lot of guys like to go with the hydro boost for power brakes because it is a smaller system, physically, so less space required under the floor and great boost. it may be hard to hook up if you don't have power steering though because it runs off the power steering pump. if going with vac booster you will be looking for the dual diaphragm style similar to the old corvette units because they are physically smaller as well but the dual diaphragm still gives good boost. not sure how much power boost you get compared to the hydroboost or a larger single diaphragm vac booster but if you wanna keep it under the floor then you are limited for size anyway unless you mount it further back on the frame and run a long push rod (see kim57 thread for what he did. he used a hydro boost but the theory is the same).
anyway, post up some pics when you start. a good kit would include the correct master cylinder (disc/drum)
master cylinder mounting bracket and hardware
disc conversion hardware, rotors with bearings, seals etc, pads, caliper mount brackets, nuts bolts etc
calipers, banjo bolts, copper washers, frame mounts for the hoses, hose retainer clips etc
front brake hoses
residual valves as the supplier sees fit
proportioning valve as supplier sees fit
here is a quick run down of a kit installed with rotors that fit over the original front hubs, so 6 bolt.
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/0902c...g_sanding_disc
here is one from cpp but not good for dropped spindles
https://www.classicindustries.com/pr.../pb10217a.html
http://www.bobschevytrucks.com/brake...nversion-kits/