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Old 07-10-2018, 10:16 AM   #55
dsraven
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: calgary alberta
Posts: 7,879
Re: 1957 Chevy 3600 Mild Custom Build

before you shoot on the project again ensure you spray some of the new paint out onto a scrap piece of something flat and smooth to mimmick the truck body. adjust the gun and air pressure so you get a good pattern and the right amount of paint laid down.you can google your gun style to learn how to adjust the pattern. watch how much atomized paint there is left over in the air after shooting as this overspray can affect the paint laid down when it settles on the fresh surface. ensure you are using the right reducer for the temp and humidity and get the viscosity correct. if the paint dries too fast you will easily get orange peel, too slow and you will tend to get runs. using a painters measuring cup helps as well as the graduated stir sticks. remember the tapered cups have different volumes as you pour more in so if using the graduated stick keep this in mind and maybe use a paint can to mix in rather than a tapered cup. I usually mix a couple of cans at a time so I don't have to stop mid spray to mix another cup full. keep the lid on the can loose so you can easily get it off on a hurry. practice a little on the scrap part. even a big piece of cardboard to check the pattern will work. when you lay down the next paint watch the reflection of the new coat as it goes down. always keep the gun and fresh spray area between you and the light so you can see the paint reflect as it sprays onto the project. spray some paint on and shoot a panel then take a look in a sec to see if it levels out or if it needs more or less paint to get it right. this is especially true on the second coat where the second coat can go on and look orange peel but in a second or two the first coat absorbs the fresh paint and the surface lays down flat and smooth. you can sorta tell how it looks right away and then decide if you need another pass, more or less speed as you shoot etc. remember to keep shaking the gun to keep the metallic particles suspended in the paint inside the cup, if using metallic. some guys will start at the top of the project and work down, some start at the bottom and work up. bottom up theory says the wet paint just shot below will absorb some of the overspray as new paint is shot above it. personally I like to shoot from the top down especially on a truck where there is more chance of rubbing an airline or something on the fresh paint just sprayed. personal choice. sometimes taking the box off helps to make it easier to get the roof and back of the cab done without rubbing something but more chance of ending up with a different sheen that way. spraying a solid color is easier because there is no chance of getting a blush area in the metallics where the spray patterns overlap. base/clear can be more forgiving if you mess up because you could redo a small area and buff the clear smooth after.
painting the garbage can first can help you adjust the gun plus you get a matching garbage can in the shop, lol.
a clean gun is always a good start. the right air pressure is important and adjusting the gun before spraying the project is a big point. try adjusting and playing with the gun settings and spraying patterns using something cheap like laquer thinner or gun wash as a medium. it is thinner than the paint so the gun would need re adjusting with the proper consistency product inside before actually painting but you will get to see what the adjustments do for the patterns and amount of product put out by the tip. check with the gun manufacturer for tip and needle sizes and also air pressure ranges for the product you are spraying, then practice some.
good luck.
keep posting pics of the progress.
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