['68OrangeSunshine]

The Upper Clutch Rod (6) [''the bent thing'' on a V8] connects to the Clutch Lever under the dash and goes to the top ''Ear'' of the Z-Bar. This ear is outboard. Z-Bar has a socket end which goes on a big Ball Stud (8) attached to the drivers side of the engine block. Z-Bar's other end is a 3/8'' slotted stud (9) that slips into a notch in a bracket rivetted onto the LH Frame. A special rectangular, bent, slotted washer (13) goes on the end of the 3/8 stud, with a 3/8 star washer (14) and secures with a 3/8 nut ( 15). The special washer is L-shaped in profile. This keeps the outboard end of the Z-Bar from 'walking' out of position.
From the Clutch Fork, the Lower Clutch Push Rod (2) slips into the Fork using a pivot nut (3). [Weird triangular-ended thingie with a hole in the middle.] Other end of Lower Rod runs thru a pivot (1) on the lower ear of the Z-Bar. I use two - 3/8 Fine nuts (4 ) --doublenutted-- as a stop on the Lower Rod. Once thru the pivot, I secure it with another 3/8 fine nut, giving about 1/4'' - 3/8'' play.
Attach the Clutch Return Spring from the end of the Clutch Fork to a hole in the frame, and you're done.
I don't remember how good the parts explosion is in the LMC catalog, but it could help.

Notes:
When turning a nut on the Lower Clutch Push Rod, I grab the rod with vice-grips to keep it from turning also. All the fasteners are 9/16'' IIRC.
The factory used a kind of spring pin clip (7) to make the thru ends of the rods secure on the Z-Bar. They sorta looked like an "@" sign. Couldn't find any at O'Reilly's yesterday. A washer and a cotter pin will suffice.
Just pulled this job off on my '71 GMC Jimmy after a header transplant. Total PIA. Drivers side headers went on, then off, then on. Had to heat and smack a clearance ding on #7 tube to set the Z-Bar in place.

Hope this helps.

EDIT: With Grumpy's attachment of the LMC parts explosion, I will use the LMC p/ns in brackets for illustration purposes.