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Old 05-04-2019, 12:07 PM   #1958
gringoloco
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Germany, for now
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Quote:
Originally Posted by TA_C10 View Post
That looks great gringo, looks very similar to the Tanks Inc I installed. Very professional indeed

And yeah...... I had to modify the heck out of it like you mentioned. I have a deep tank so I had to extend the arm to 13" and therefore the return tube ended up being too short for my liking so I extended it as well so when fuel level is low it's not splashing and foaming fuel right next to the pickup...

I used galvanized steel with stainless fasteners to build my extension. What materials did you use? And did you make a mounting ring to sandwich your top plate to tank?


My Tanks Inc install

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=105


.
Very nice work on your install, I hadn't seen that before.

Details: I used a piece of 1/8” thick x 3/4” wide aluminum strap for the hanger, which is bolted to the top plate with stainless fasteners (and 3/8” aluminum spacers to make room for the bulkhead fitting nut). The hanger strap was bent at 90° on top for the bolts to pass through, then a small bend at the bottom to prevent the pump from sliding down. I also created small slots for the pump retention straps to ride in, again to prevent sliding down. The straps are stainless “zip ties”, similar to header wrap retainers.

The short 6” piece of submersible hose was cut in half, where I spliced in the one way check valve, since Walbro pumps are known for not retaining pressure. The hose is held in place with stainless oetiker single-ear clamps.

Electrical connections are simply #10-24 stainless fasteners, insulated using the method described here by dayj1:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...7&postcount=10

...and held in place with stainless nylock nuts on the outside of the plate.

The sandwich ring was already in place from Boyd’s, who setup all of their tanks to accept their drop-in pump assemblies. The supply elbow bulkhead fitting is one that transitions from -6an to a 5/16” barb to connect to the pump feed. It is sealed where it passes through the plate with an Earls stat-o-seal (o-ringed crush washer). The only non-stainless or aluminum I used in the whole deal were the zinc plated stover nuts on the hanger bolts, since I don’t trust that nylock nuts are actually made of nylon and won’t be affected by fuel. Everything that passes through the plate is threaded and sealed with anaerobic sealer, so hoping not to have any leaks
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