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Old 05-04-2019, 02:03 PM   #1959
TA_C10
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Texas
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Quote:
Originally Posted by gringoloco View Post
Very nice work on your install, I hadn't seen that before.

Details: I used a piece of 1/8” thick x 3/4” wide aluminum strap for the hanger, which is bolted to the top plate with stainless fasteners (and 3/8” aluminum spacers to make room for the bulkhead fitting nut). The hanger strap was bent at 90° on top for the bolts to pass through, then a small bend at the bottom to prevent the pump from sliding down. I also created small slots for the pump retention straps to ride in, again to prevent sliding down. The straps are stainless “zip ties”, similar to header wrap retainers.

The short 6” piece of submersible hose was cut in half, where I spliced in the one way check valve, since Walbro pumps are known for not retaining pressure. The hose is held in place with stainless oetiker single-ear clamps.

Electrical connections are simply #10-24 stainless fasteners, insulated using the method described here by dayj1:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...7&postcount=10

...and held in place with stainless nylock nuts on the outside of the plate.

The sandwich ring was already in place from Boyd’s, who setup all of their tanks to accept their drop-in pump assemblies. The supply elbow bulkhead fitting is one that transitions from -6an to a 5/16” barb to connect to the pump feed. It is sealed where it passes through the plate with an Earls stat-o-seal (o-ringed crush washer). The only non-stainless or aluminum I used in the whole deal were the zinc plated stover nuts on the hanger bolts, since I don’t trust that nylock nuts are actually made of nylon and won’t be affected by fuel. Everything that passes through the plate is threaded and sealed with anaerobic sealer, so hoping not to have any leaks

Very nice work here sir. I like the use of some of the materials you used like the stainless steel zip ties. Of course the zip ties in the Tanks kit will be fine they are a nylon or some kind of fuel rated plastic. They are really nice and thick so don't get me wrong they are better quality then most manufactures would send(in case others are thinking of this kit), but the SS ties are a nice touch.

You know I had to go buy a longer piece of submersible hose myself because the one in the kit was just long enough for the 10" of arm that comes with it and I needed an extra 3". Boy is that stuff expensive! I looked at getting a 3' piece and its was like $40-$50 or something!!

The anaerobic sealer is another nice touch. The Tanks kit comes with all the SS screws with little rubber o-rings on them but this worries me some years down the road are they going to dry out and crack and etc... I did put a little antisieze on the bolts though. And if I ever have to replace the pump inside, those o-rings will have to be replaced...

I welded my ring to my blazer/suburban tank with small tack welds. Which this of course meant I had to remove the nice coating on the tank, which then meant steel exposure, which then meant I had to use a sealer to keep the rust at bay. And now that I am typing this I just realized the piece of galvanized steel I cut to length to extend the tanks arm, well I didn't put any sealer on the edge I cut, so I hope that doesn't rust on me cuz I'm pretty sure the ACE hardware galvanized steel sheets are just a coating.... I dunno...

Anyway, great job and thanks for the information here. On my next truck/car I plan to have a lot more time for custom fabrication and will use this as inspiration/ideas.


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