[Haggar]

The post above is pretty much the process. It ends up depending on what parts of which seats that you want to keep. I just did my seats, and can speak to it, although I don't have any pics handy. My case is 2010 Escalade/Yukon/Tahoe seats. I used the 2nd row seats for the front of the Jimmy, and the 3rd row seat for the rear.

For the drivers seat, I had the original seat slider, on top of which was modified/welded a set of slider mounts for a Scat low back bucket I had previously. In either case (Scat or factory sliders), I think it's a flat piece that bolts go up through and into the seat. So, I took what would become my drivers seat, and removed the black bottom trim, and the Cadillac seat mount and brackets off. Eventually, it was stripped down enough that the seat frame was exposed, in my case the two main rails of the seat were flat tube about 14" apart.MY seat sliders were also flat, 14.625" apart for the holes. I adapted simply by taking some thick flat stock, drilling it and bolting to the seat, and then drilling and tapping a set of holes in the flat bars to bolt to my seat slider.

For my passenger seat, I wanted the Cadillac base to keep the flip and fold of the seat, its much better mechanism than the original flip up seat. So, I just set it all in there, and then started tripping and shimming the base until it fit OK. I needed a 'riser' for the back of the seat bracket (the later seat bracket is offset higher in the back, where the Jimmy's floor is flat). In this case, I welded up a riser from a piece of rectangle tubing, bolted that to the floor in the original holes, and then bolted the seat bracket to the new riser. The front holes lined up so that I was able to drill the new bracket to fit the old holes.

The back seat, again, I stripped the new seats down, to remove all of the stuff that makes them removable from the original Cadillac (you know, you pull the handle and they unclip from the floor..... I didn't need all that). After removing about 15 lbs of brackets (literally about 15 lbs), you get to the seat frame, which again had nice flat mounting points, already with welded nuts and bolts you can reuse from the original frame. I built a new frame from some square tubing I had, and unbolted the original legs from the 1971 seat and welded them to my new frame.

Each seat is a different way of doing things, but in each case, I re-used all of the stock mounting holes in the floor.

My suggestion is to do similar. Look at the new seats, if needed, start removing the original mounts and bottom panel or trim. See what surfaces you have to work with. While I have a welder and metal working tools, the solution I did on the drivers seat could be done with basic saw, drill and tap.