Re: 70 C20 Hard to Brake
One tech tip when removing the old master and booster. There is a push-rod between the booster and master cylinder. Locate it, keep it and re-use it as new parts don't have this part. When inserted into the booster, it touches the back of the master cylinders piston assembly.
Problems;
Most all are adjustable and length matters. Too short, and there will be a lot of travel when applying. Too long and it may hold the master cylinders piston from rearward travel, not allowing the "Fill" port in the master to allow brake fluid in. As brakes are applied, the hole is covered & blocked off, trapping build to be pressurized.
A lot of guys have been on this forum after this work with problems of travel or unable to bleed. You can see the rear hole in the bottom of your new master in both reservoirs. This is gravity feed and fills the system to allow for wear for rear and front both. Very little movement should close this hole and can be seen in action on the "Bench" bleed procedure for the master.
Just a heads up! Best of luck with your project.
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