The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network - View Single Post - 47-59 coolant overflow

dsraven · 11-14-2020, 02:37 AM

a quick read on ph levels in coolants and the basic differences of regular and long life. also mentions electrolysis developed from high ph levels and how that can eat up aluminum parts and/or cause coolant leaks.

https://www.cartechbooks.com/techtips/antifreeze

I always recommend to size the coolant reservoir appropriately and mount it as close to the rad as possible simply to make the connecting tubing as short as possible. the connecting tube should also have a clamp to seal it at the rad neck and be deep enough in the reservoir, or be tapped in from the bottom of the reservoir, so the hose doesn't "run dry" and it can draw as much coolant as possible back if required (or basically all the coolant, minus a small bit so the hose doesn't touch bottom and will leave behind any debris in the bottom of the tank, like sediment). I also fill and bleed the system as good as possible, pressure test to the rad cap pressure specs for 15 minutes minimum when filling or topping off, then run the engine to operating temp. allow to cool completely and then remove the rad cap and fill the system again when it is cold, topping off the reservoir as well. this allows the engine to boil out any bubbles and draw back clear fluid from the reservoir. the next time the engine is run to temp it may puke some coolant out of the reservoir as needed but then the system should stay good after this, assuming there are no leaks, the rad cap is operational and the reservoir is sized appropriately. if having trouble bleeding the system rev the engine a few times, to about 3k. this gets the water pump moving coolant quicker through the system so bubbles can be pushed through if possible. it's a good idea to road test for this reason as well. coolant can slosh around from cornering or acceleration/braking and this action can get bubbles moving as well.
jus what works for me. hope that helps somebody.

11-14-2020, 02:37 AM	#14
dsraven Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: calgary alberta Posts: 8,501	Re: coolant overflow a quick read on ph levels in coolants and the basic differences of regular and long life. also mentions electrolysis developed from high ph levels and how that can eat up aluminum parts and/or cause coolant leaks. https://www.cartechbooks.com/techtips/antifreeze I always recommend to size the coolant reservoir appropriately and mount it as close to the rad as possible simply to make the connecting tubing as short as possible. the connecting tube should also have a clamp to seal it at the rad neck and be deep enough in the reservoir, or be tapped in from the bottom of the reservoir, so the hose doesn't "run dry" and it can draw as much coolant as possible back if required (or basically all the coolant, minus a small bit so the hose doesn't touch bottom and will leave behind any debris in the bottom of the tank, like sediment). I also fill and bleed the system as good as possible, pressure test to the rad cap pressure specs for 15 minutes minimum when filling or topping off, then run the engine to operating temp. allow to cool completely and then remove the rad cap and fill the system again when it is cold, topping off the reservoir as well. this allows the engine to boil out any bubbles and draw back clear fluid from the reservoir. the next time the engine is run to temp it may puke some coolant out of the reservoir as needed but then the system should stay good after this, assuming there are no leaks, the rad cap is operational and the reservoir is sized appropriately. if having trouble bleeding the system rev the engine a few times, to about 3k. this gets the water pump moving coolant quicker through the system so bubbles can be pushed through if possible. it's a good idea to road test for this reason as well. coolant can slosh around from cornering or acceleration/braking and this action can get bubbles moving as well. jus what works for me. hope that helps somebody.