Quote:
Originally Posted by dsraven
if you take the switch out and the groove in the piston is not seen, like it has travelled so far one way you can't see it anymore, you may have to make it move the other way by opening a front bleeder screw (or crack a front brake line at the valve while watching the differential valve piston) and apply the brakes a bit (a buddy helping) so the system senses a pressure differential the other way and the piston moves enough so you can see the groove again. otherwise remove the prop valve section from the rear of the valve and push the piston forward from there using a nice clean tool. the problem with that is you allow air into the system and will have to bleed it again (with the switch tool installed once the valve is centered).
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Lots of information! Trying to get through it all. Thank you! I was able to remove the switch and did not see the groove so opened the front caliper pushed the brake pedal and saw and heard it move. I installed the switch and hooked up my test light and the light was lit so removed and did cracked the rear and pushed the pedal. That moved the groove and the test light didn’t light after reinstalling it. I’ll run that wire to my Dakota Digital display later. Do you think I need to bleed again after resetting that valve? Pedal is still the same so I was looking at booster push rod length next but don’t have an easy way to measure that. Not sure if it’s too far out or not enough. POL was supposed to set that when they put it together.
The rear calipers were just replaced with new ones from AUTOZONE since the new/used set I bought a few years back leaked @ the seals. I’ll try to get more pics when I am home later today.
This is the kit I bought with disc/disc setup. Wondering if I should have went with a manual proportioning valve...
https://www.performanceonline.com/19...e-Booster-Kit/
I’ll attach some pics of my setup I have on my phone.