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Originally Posted by mongocanfly
MAN..!!!!....it looks sooooo good sitting on the ground...!!!!!!!!!!
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Thanks, Greg.
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Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20
X2!! It looks great on the ground!
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X2 Dale, thanks.
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Originally Posted by Low Elco
Shoooo-weeee! Purdy!
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Getting closer, Chip, thanks!
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Originally Posted by nsb29
Had my share of 57 when the fad was jack the ass up changing rear tires wasn’t a problem but lowered becomes one the scissor jacks work well picking it up by the axle but getting the wheel out of the rear wheel well is another story same problem with my C10 the scissor jack won’t lift it by the frame high enough to get the tire off the ground
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I have the same problem. Front is too low to get a floor jack under the cross member so you have to carefully pick up the corner of the square tubing the core support bolts to. Then use jack stands under the frame horns until you have enough room to get under the A-arm and lift the wheel off the ground. Rear is even worse. Requires a floor jack, 12" long 4x6, two sets of jack stands and 3/4" wrenches to remove the bottom shock bolt on the side that needs to come off. It was so involved that I wrote myself a go-by and printed it out in case it became necessary to pull a tire/wheel on the road. Of course, I won't be carrying all that with me when we travel so i'll have to rely on a tow service and a shop to fix a flat if it's on the rear. Probably cost a fortune - but hey, it looks cool.
I had one last thing to calibrate on the DD gauges and that was the speedo. They support several methods, but the one that made the most sense to me was the marked mile. Rather than find a stretch of road with mile markers, I used a different approach. I pulled the car out into the driveway, jacked up the rear and set the rear axle on a couple of stands. I then taped a magnet to the rim and set a cheap Chinese proximity sensor with a counter facing it. So every revolution of the wheel increased the count by one. I got the gauges in the setup mode and then put it in drive while my helper, Kathy, watched the counter until it reached 746. That's the number of revolutions the tire makes in a mile for the size tire I have. I then pressed the switch to store the number of pulses the ECU sent to the gauge and I was done. Worked great.
What doesn't work so great is the transmission. I think I have one of two possible problems. It seems like the line pressure is low. You have to give it quite a bit of throttle to get it to move. Rick (at HRE) said aftermarket dipsticks are notoriously incorrect. When they work one like mine, they connect a gauge to the line pressure port (the one I just recently fixed) and add fluid until they get the reading they want then mark the dipstick for future reference. Said it often appears that the trans is way overfilled, but if that's what it takes, it's not a problem. I'm leaning that way since everything I've read on the interweb indicates a 4L60E trans with a stock pan should take around 12 quarts dry. I have a deeper pan than stock and so far have only put 9 quarts in it. The dipstick shows full, so I was hesitant to add more fluid until we can get a pressure gauge on it.
Another potential issue is the large plug that goes into the trans. When I plugged the harness into the trans, it clicked solid on one side but not so much on the other. It's in a really tough spot to reach and I can't get a lot of leverage on it. I think I have it plugged all the way in, but we'll need to verify it once it's on the lift at HRE. Rick said the trans would work (sorta) without being plugged in, so I'm unsure whether the symptoms I'm experiencing are electrical or hydraulic. Only drove it gently a couple of blocks so I wouldn't think it caused any lasting damage. But it's not going any further under it's own power until we run diagnostics.
The dome light has a short to ground and blew a fuse. Weird thing is that American Autowire gangs the brake lights and the dome light to the same fuse. The wires have different terminals on the fuse panel but from there they share a 15A fuse. So when the dome light took out the fuse there went my brake lights too. Replaced the fuse so the brake lights work and left the dome light wire out of the fuse block. Will deal with it later.
The other thing that cropped up was the rear camera doesn't record. Before I ran the wire from the back to the front unit, I tested it to make sure it was recording. However, now that the upholstery is in, it no longer works. My guess is that they put a staple thru the wire when the windlace went in. I had pointed out the wire to them and asked that they be super careful around it. Not sure at all if that's the issue but I've ordered a new cable (special for this model dash cam) and will test it when it arrives. If it works, I'll need to go back to the trim shop for a re-do.