Re: 1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500
I have found that the "clamp" parts need to have a common gap and to end. Too much clamping force makes ridges in the tube. Just enough clamp to keep the tubing from moving. Then the round thing to start the flare, and finally the finish. Dont tighten the finish flare down to tightly or it seems to leak. Allow the final screwdown into the fitting to do a bit of tweaking on the flare so it can set it's own seat angle sort of.
That's just what works for me.
|