trans jack is easier and safer.. they tilt on 2 axis and sit on 4 swivel casters for better alignment.. they have a wide base that's more stable.. broad lifting plates with adapter brackets to steady trans case and safety chains to keep trans from rolling off crushing fingers, hands, etc.
once trans is secured in the jack, measure height you'll need for frame clearance.. use your floor jack and stands to elevate the front of the truck high enough to roll trans under the tunnel..
you can elevate the trans from there and stab it once clutch kit is mounted and splines aligned.. if working height is too tall for comfort, use floor jack to adjust stands down or lower wheels to ground, whatever is more convenient..
that's the absolute safest and easiest way to do it without struggling with input shaft alignment and possibly misaligning or damaging clutch components..
you can rent, borrow, or buy trans jacks.. as a professional mechanic, I have access to equipment at work and friends who are mechanics, but I have a harbor freight jack in my garage I've used several times.. I bought it for a short notice weekend job but it was inexpensive and it actually works just fine.. you're not really working under it but still keep your hands out of the lift regardless of brand as there really isn't an easy way to add safety stands under them..
trans jacks can also come in handy for other automotive uses where standard floor jacks are awkward or not maneuverable..
one slip of a greasy heavy cast iron trans case, you may be sorely disappointed.. been doing this for over 30 years and not only have all my fingers and toes, they all work as designed
good luck!
btw, mine looks much like this from jegs, probably made in the same factory in china.. most adapter plates are similar and easy to fab brackets to fit odd shaped cases if needed..
