[May70]

Clarification note on the frames. Its not really a totally different frame... I did a lot of digging a few years ago looking for parts for my c20 so im recalling from memory.. Ive also had about 10 frames here from 10s and 20s.

10/20 frame rails are the exact same. Axles and spindles/hubs are different (I think control arms are different too cant remember), obviously because now you are in the 8 lug category. Either could have leaf's or trailing arms. Rear cab mounts are lower on the frame rail for larger padding on the 20/30s. All the other mounting locations are the exact same. Sheet metal is the exact same, cabs 10-30 are the same. Bracing and cross members are identical excluding options obviously between 10-20s.

Im pretty certain 30s were also the same frame rails, with the same rated setup up front as the 20s and like two-three options in the rear if that for axles. I've seen 30s with single rears or duals but im not super knowledgeable on the 30s.

Above 30's the frame changed.

So in other words, to achieve the gvwr of the 20s you can 'bolt on' their factory equipment to achieve that or you can upgrade to aftermarket to supersede that #.

Legalities involved from state-state (more of an enforcement standpoint). The plate is king in most places. Not sure about getting an updated plate legit or not.

I assume the above mentioned is where they come up with the difference in gvwr's. There are some much more seasoned folks here that have had many 10-30s that could tell us. Grumpy/special k/leon come to mind.

Your biggest issues are trans and brakes. Go and stop, safely. Obviously if you need to greatly exceed your current gvwr you need to slow the roll. My grandfather would do it every time he used his trucks but that doesnt mean it was safe or right. He was a preacher and e/m engineer though so it must have been in good faith hah