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NeoJuice · 09-09-2021, 11:33 AM

Hey 84Blaze,

First thing I did was take my VIN from the truck to the registry to see if it was in the system, which it wasn't so that's why I needed the out of province inspection (VIN check is free but inspection is double the cost of a normal inspection)

I called my insurance company and got insurance on the truck, they needed bill of sale and pictures and got my pink card in the mail.

I think I'm paying $120/year for the following
-Up to 10,000km/year
-2 Million liability
-Collision
-$250 deductible

Once I had insurance and I figured that everything was ready to pass on the truck I then went to the registry and got the out of province inspection form and 'in transit' sticker. You will also need to take the truck a facility that is authorized to do OPP inspections. Use the following link to find OPP inspection facilities.

http://www.transportation.alberta.ca...on/vishome.asp

If you don’t know what some of the requirements are to pass you can view the following PDF.

http://www.transportation.alberta.ca...ualdec2009.pdf

Out of the 154 page manual, pages 37-57 breaks down pass / fail criteria. Pages 81-83 is the inspection checklist

There are some things that are on there that don’t qualify because the truck didn’t come with them. But that all depends on the inspector and facility. Some things that I needed to add was a heater and wire in a neutral safety switch. You will need things like wipers (but don’t need sprayers). All the glass has to be good, all your lights need to work properly, emergency brake has to work, brake lines/fuel lines run properly. But yet if you go to some places, some inspectors will pass hot rods/rat rods with less and put them on the road. This isn’t right IMO. If any issues are found you have 14 days to return to the mechanic to show the discrepancies are resolved.

Luckily the only thing I needed was a wheel alignment, OPP and two new rear axel seals. I didn’t know I needed two new rear seals until after I got the mechanic and gear old was leaking down onto the rear rotors. What do you expect for a 40 year old GM 10 bolt rear with the original seals. For him to change them out only cost me $180. Like I'm going through all that trouble of pulling the axels and tearing everything apart for $180 lol.

Once the inspection is complete the mechanic enters in the information into the computer. He gives you a form to take back to the registry and with proof of insurance and the OPP form you can get your plate. The one thing about when you get your plate you can get an antique plate (only allows you to go from car show to car show/maintenance) or you can get a normal plate that will let you drive it anytime/place you want. You will also need to discuss this with your insurance company. I went for the normal plate because I want to drive the truck when/how I want.

If you want to chat PM me and I'll get ya my number. Hope that helps.

09-09-2021, 11:33 AM	#117
NeoJuice Registered User Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Beaumont, Alberta Posts: 468	Re: 1952 Project 1433 Hey 84Blaze, First thing I did was take my VIN from the truck to the registry to see if it was in the system, which it wasn't so that's why I needed the out of province inspection (VIN check is free but inspection is double the cost of a normal inspection) I called my insurance company and got insurance on the truck, they needed bill of sale and pictures and got my pink card in the mail. I think I'm paying $120/year for the following -Up to 10,000km/year -2 Million liability -Collision -$250 deductible Once I had insurance and I figured that everything was ready to pass on the truck I then went to the registry and got the out of province inspection form and 'in transit' sticker. You will also need to take the truck a facility that is authorized to do OPP inspections. Use the following link to find OPP inspection facilities. http://www.transportation.alberta.ca...on/vishome.asp If you don’t know what some of the requirements are to pass you can view the following PDF. http://www.transportation.alberta.ca...ualdec2009.pdf Out of the 154 page manual, pages 37-57 breaks down pass / fail criteria. Pages 81-83 is the inspection checklist There are some things that are on there that don’t qualify because the truck didn’t come with them. But that all depends on the inspector and facility. Some things that I needed to add was a heater and wire in a neutral safety switch. You will need things like wipers (but don’t need sprayers). All the glass has to be good, all your lights need to work properly, emergency brake has to work, brake lines/fuel lines run properly. But yet if you go to some places, some inspectors will pass hot rods/rat rods with less and put them on the road. This isn’t right IMO. If any issues are found you have 14 days to return to the mechanic to show the discrepancies are resolved. Luckily the only thing I needed was a wheel alignment, OPP and two new rear axel seals. I didn’t know I needed two new rear seals until after I got the mechanic and gear old was leaking down onto the rear rotors. What do you expect for a 40 year old GM 10 bolt rear with the original seals. For him to change them out only cost me $180. Like I'm going through all that trouble of pulling the axels and tearing everything apart for $180 lol. Once the inspection is complete the mechanic enters in the information into the computer. He gives you a form to take back to the registry and with proof of insurance and the OPP form you can get your plate. The one thing about when you get your plate you can get an antique plate (only allows you to go from car show to car show/maintenance) or you can get a normal plate that will let you drive it anytime/place you want. You will also need to discuss this with your insurance company. I went for the normal plate because I want to drive the truck when/how I want. If you want to chat PM me and I'll get ya my number. Hope that helps. Last edited by NeoJuice; 09-09-2021 at 03:44 PM.