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Old 09-25-2022, 10:50 PM   #6
RustyPile
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Location: Elkhart, Texas
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Re: 1968 GMC 250 In-line 6 Rear Mail Seal

Quote:
Originally Posted by 68gmcdude View Post
I cleaned the area of the crankshaft where the seal runs but I did not polish it. How would I go about polishing it?

I also cleaned the recess where the upper half of the seal inserts by feeding a small flexible brush and brushing back and forth.

The seals were put in with the end(s) offset 3/8" so they did not line up with the ends of the cap and block. The end of the seal halves had RTV sealant added. I also put it on the surface of the cap.

I'm about 100% sure it is the rear main seal that is leaking. The valve cover gasket and the side pushrod covers also have had the gaskets replaced. All is completely dry around those areas. When I replaced the rear seal, I obviously had to replace the oil pan gasket. All is dry around that as well. The only place there is oil is on the inside of the flywheel cover, which is then dripping on the ground from the hole in the bottom of the cover.
Use a product called Crocus Cloth, about 220 - 320 grit.. Here's a link to help you find it. https://www.bing.com/search?q=crocus...ANAB01&PC=LCTS

Tear off a strip a foot or so long and narrow enough (maybe 1/4") to fit around the crankshaft.. Pass one end of the strip through seal groove and pull the ends tight and "row" the ends back and forth until the shaft area is shiny.. After polishing an area, you'll need to rotate the crankshaft a few degrees each time until the entire circumference is shiny. Be sure you clean off all the grit and debris after polishing.. Leave NOTHING behind..

No sealant is necessary on the seal, especially not on the ends of the seal.. Also, there is a front and back to the seal. Instructions with the seal should explain how to identify. Beginning with the introduction of PCV systems, the seals were manufactured with a double lip.

Too much sealant on the cap will keep it from fully seating against the block.. Remember there is only .002" clearance between the crank journal and main bearing.. You only need a very small thin layer in the area I mentioned in my post.. The volume of the sealant for this area is about the size of a BB - very small amount.. It will spread out when you tighten the main bearing cap.

I was an automobile mechanic for over 30 years. I also built race engines for 12 of those years.. In that time I probably replaced and/or installed hundreds of rear main seals.. I never "staggered" the ends of the seals in any engines. It's almost impossible to set the "stagger" equal amounts on each half.. Also, I can't remember having to redo one because it leaked using the method I just described..
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