Quote:
Originally Posted by daveshilling
Sweet!! Keep up this momentum, its motivating
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for sure! we just keep chipping away..
my next process, is the way i do it. it is a bit of a process but i can say that there is next to no filler around my edges. once you get this process figured out it really isn't all that bad, but then again i don't mind the extra work. there are tons of other ways but this is my take....
i got started by double checking the center body line on this truck. with no striker bolt, i start by loosening up the hinge bolts (cab and door), just enough to move the door around. after a few times opening/closing i ended up with 4 paint sticks stacked on the foot well step, i taped them together and taped them to the foot well step so they couldn't move. with the door loose i picked it up while closing it and rested it on the sticks, everything seemed to line up good enough. i crawled inside the passenger door and tighten the door bolts. i then taped and made some marks to get a rough idea of the cab hinge placement. opened the door used a jack under the door to help with support and movement i may need and ran the hinge bolts on the a-pillar. next insert the striker bolt and get the door depth adjusted to meet the cab. i had about 1/16 of door higher than my pillar area so i ended up using a piece of wood 1/2" thick about 2ft long and a small ball ping hammer. lay the wood on the door and hit the wood along the door edge area, allowing the outter door edge to "massage" it's way down to become flush with the cab b-pillar.
with the door opening/closing, body line all good and depth good. i tape off the inner area of the cab. there's a lot of welding and grinding going on, so i want to keep it out the cab. next i take black spray paint (because the under lying door is silver) and i spray a little around the doors edge. i use a scribe from Big Kid Blocks. it is a machined piece with a flat side and a scribe edge (a very useful little tool to have). i run the flat edge along the fender and where ever the door is too close it will scribe a line through my black paint giving me a silver line. i run the tool up the fender, along the cab and down the b-pillar letting it put a scribe mark along the door where areas are too close.
with your scribe line, work a little area at a time, because in some places you could grind through the doors rolled edge, allowing a little separation and you don't want too much of that when you'll be welding that shut. now where the part did not touch i make a note on the door where i can either stack some welds or weld on some dowel rod. in this doors case it was away from the b-pillar area by quiet a bit, so i welded in an 1/8" dowel. the dowel is just the right thickness to keep the look of the rolled edge. if you add by welding always weld more than what is needed this allows for you to have enough material to shape on the show side and inside to look clean. you may have to bounce back and forth for a scribe mark but it'll work out.