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cbeerman · 02-20-2023, 10:29 AM

I agree the factory clevis and pin design is crude by todays standards. On the clapped out shift bar on my 68, I thought about adding bronze bushings to tighten it up instead of welding and re-drilling the holes. Heims would be a nice upgrade but you may still need some "slop" in the system.

On your Dodge did the u-joint fail or the yoke?
From what I gather, the factory yokes are 1310 u-joints with the K20 rear yoke being a 1350 u-joint. My 68 is the married style with a coupler for the input so my scenario is different from yours.
Will a K20 rear yoke fit on your input shaft?
If it did I guess you could have another intermediate driveshaft made for 1350s and you would need to find a 1350 SM420 yoke. This seems like a lot of work when a quality u-joint like a Spicer 5-1310X and new u-bolts would probably be strong enough.

02-20-2023, 10:29 AM	#2
cbeerman Registered User Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: NJ Posts: 406	Re: Couple T221 questions I agree the factory clevis and pin design is crude by todays standards. On the clapped out shift bar on my 68, I thought about adding bronze bushings to tighten it up instead of welding and re-drilling the holes. Heims would be a nice upgrade but you may still need some "slop" in the system. On your Dodge did the u-joint fail or the yoke? From what I gather, the factory yokes are 1310 u-joints with the K20 rear yoke being a 1350 u-joint. My 68 is the married style with a coupler for the input so my scenario is different from yours. Will a K20 rear yoke fit on your input shaft? If it did I guess you could have another intermediate driveshaft made for 1350s and you would need to find a 1350 SM420 yoke. This seems like a lot of work when a quality u-joint like a Spicer 5-1310X and new u-bolts would probably be strong enough.