Quote:
Originally Posted by dsraven
LG is on the same diagnosing thought process as me on this. It's why I said to totally disconnect the alternator and see if the problem goes away. New alternators can be faulty too, maybe a bad part or maybe dropped somewhere along the supply chain. Who knows.
A test light is a must have and are only a few bucks. Some have an audible alarm as well as a light. Try to get one that has a decent clamp on the end so it grips well and will stay put. Test wires, or jumper wires can be made up cheap as well or you can buy a cheap set too. Try to find some with good alligator clips on the ends with color coded flexible insulators over the clips as sometimes you need to test a circuit that is right next to another circuit or ground. Also try for flexible wire as regular car wire can be kinda stiff sometimes and will pull the clip off.
If you need to check power from a connector with small connectors and the test light light is kinda big to fit I use a small pin with a little circle bent into one end and then flattened to form a T. You can get them cheap from an office supply or a craft store or online. They are called t pins. Used for cork boards, fabric etc.
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Yes I get a parasitic draw of .07 when all 3 wires are removed.
I need to dig into the ignition switch again when I get back out there.
I found the diode in my wiring kit, pretty sure I need to put that in. Might not solve the problem but I’m going to do that before taking the alternator back and having it tested.
Yes I’ve bought brand new/refurbished parts before and had them not work or cause a fuse to blow. Jeep TJ wiper motor comes to mind. Tried twice then just bought a used one on ebay.
I actually already have “T” pins. As soon as I can wrap my head around how you want me to use them I’ll dig them out 😁
Thank you all for the help