Quote:
Originally Posted by dsraven
personally I like the mechanical cut off switches because they don't rely on electrical power to operate. I have vehicles that sit for extended periods and parasitic loads from stereos or security systems can draw a battery down to nothing over the course of a couple months. some of these mechanical switches are key operated for security reasons. it depends what you want the switch for i guess. ensure the cut off switch is rated for the max amp draw for your project.
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Good point there. If I let my 98 BMW 528I sit too long and the battery goes dead the only way I have had to charge the battery is crawl through the back seat to the battery that is in the far right corner of the truck and the trunk latch needs electricity to work.
I think I have that switch on My Amazon watch list though.
They will allegedly handle 500 amps
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Disco...5&sr=1-15&th=1
On a TF it wouldn't be hard to mount one out of site under the battery box and maybe even have a hide from site shield in front of it with it in the cable to the starter.
You would want a wire running from the battery to the fuse block to keep power to the memory on the radio if you have a newer radio in it that looses it's pre set stations when you disconnect the battery.
It will deter the guy who plans to hot wire the truck and drive it off or has a hand full of keys that fit these trucks with the stock switch in them. It won't stop the pro who has an order for that model of truck or that exact truck. A lot of those use repo rigs now and don't fool with even getting in the vehicle when they snag it. Wheel in, back up and run the wheel lift under it pick it up and gone. At big shoes they might only tow it a few blocks to a waiting enclosed trailer.