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Old 04-23-2024, 02:52 PM   #11
weq92f
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Dallas Texas
Posts: 2,957
Re: Brake drag and booster/MC rod adjustment

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Got the cotter pin out of the clevis roll pin after 90 minutes cussing at it. After observing things for a while I've come to question the whole free play at the pedal notion. Everything is rigid once connected. The rod will not pull out of the booster from inside and any forward movement of the rod actuates the MC. It is a rigid coupling from MC to booster to brake pedal. There is no possibility for free play. Maybe the fraction of an inch that exists at the clevis roll pin to brake arm contact point, but I can't see where any free play would be found here.

One positive note is that removing the clevis from the brake pedal arm caused the booster rod to recess into booster 1/8" roughly. Whether that's enough to stop my brakes from locking up is questionable.

If I bring the now unconnected rod down 1" from the original drum brake hole it falls almost right in the center of the pedal arm right now. According to the document above, power brakes need more stroke and to get that, make a new hole 1" below the original hole (when going from drup to disc) and attach there.

So...as it appears removal of the brake pedal assembly isn't something I want to do right now (can't drill it installed), ima gonna remove the booster so I can spin the clevis in 1/8" and attach it back to the same spot and see what I get. Looking for no drag and full brake power somewhere before pedal hits floor. If there's an easier way to get the rod away from the brake pedal shaft...let me know please.

Have any of you drilled the new hole in brake pedal arm when going from drums to disc brakes on these trucks? Why is it that my system has zero free play...where would that free play exist in the linkage?

-Kevin
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