Quote:
Originally Posted by leegreen
it seems the increase in the leak coincides with retapping those bolts,
A couple ideas:
-drilling and retapping the block you might have pulled some metal between plate and block, now it won't pull tight
-did you tap the plate too? if both pate and block are threaded it wont pull tight
If you do have to pull it apart I'd give some serious thought to dropping the pan and putting nuts onto those bolts. 2 bolts on like 8" centres into 1950s cast iron holding the front of a 600 pound engine from flopping side to side. I'm think the factory may have had a good reason to go to the expense of machining a flat inside that hole for the nut to sit on rather than just threading the hole.
|
Lee, I hesitate to say that great minds think alike, because that would be giving me far too much credit. But as I lay awake last night going over the sequence of events that lead to the leak getting worse, I kept coming back to taping the holes in the cover/block. I realized that I was so concerned about getting shavings from the tapping into the oil pan that I may not have tapped deep enough and only ending up tapping the cover. While the bolt offered some resistance when going in, not an excessive amount.
Your thought that the tapped bolt into the block caused the two pieces, timing cover and block to not match up properly. Either from shavings and or as they threaded, they were not flush and that created more of a gap.
My plan is to put the florescent dye into the oil tomorrow when it arrives, run the engine to get a drip, then trace the drip and I highly suspect it will show around the bottom of the timing cover around one or both of those bolts. Then the disassembly can begin, including the balancer and timing cover. I may very well end up doing as your also suggest of pulling the oil pan. That will likely be a challenger as the previous owner used a cork gasket and what looks like two tubes of RTV to seal it tight.....oh boy can't wait...