Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTI
You can tweak the factory stuff to correct the Geometry. Tall BJ's, Caster mod, perf alignment vs stock spec, a new/faster ratio steering box, & lower center of gravity change things completely.
R&P set-up's are nice but again significantly add to the cost/complexity vs whats already there.
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The setup I had on Goldilocks' build (stock crossmember raised 1.5", 1" narrowed PB tubular arms, .500" taller upper ball joints, and CPP Modular drop spindles) had more camber gain per inch of travel than No Limit's WideRide front end. Depending on how much body roll you have that could be a good thing or a bad thing. I like softer/more compliant suspension that absorbs mid corner bumps and curbing so having more camber gain to add more camber as the body rolls is a good thing- you can run less static camber. Stock camber gain is .86* per inch inch of travel, No Limit is 1.56*, my setup was 1.61*. The PB arms corrected the lack of caster and the No Limit rack & pinion corrected bump steer. The factory crossmember already has about 10* of antidive built in so that's good as-is. Now, if you like stiff suspension and no body roll because everyone thinks that's what makes something handle good... you don't really need geometry anyway, just throw some static camber at it.
The factory geometry with a few tweaks, plus an appropriate spring rate and good shock valving can be really good, and plenty good enough for autocross if you're not trying to be top level competitive.