Quote:
Originally Posted by 72SB
I believe MC are specific to power or manual, not aware of with or without filler slug unless the appropriate MC for power needs one (has recessed hole for it)
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As mentioned, you need about 1/4" of free pedal travel before it engages the MC through booster so no pressure remains on the MC with foot off the brake pedal
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I believe this kit is from CPP as their docs mention the slug as being their way of making it possible to install either power or manual MC. Yes...the free pedal travel. I found I have none.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardJ
You could grind it down on a grinding wheel, shorter and with the same contour. If you ever replace the MC, you might have to weld the pin back up to meet that situation.
What a pain.
A permanent flange type gasket spacer between the MC and booster would work. Aluminum sheet would probably be best. Soda/beer cans make good shim material and can be cut with scissors.
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Grinding isn't going to be possible due to the shape of the tips. If necessary, I would consider the spacers/shims. I've seen some of these in pictures that looked good.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cj847
Caution: May not be the best idea ever but worked for me.
I had your exact situation. I found you could order about 3 lengths of push rod, but none would have been a drop in fix. What I did ... was stack some washers on the mounting bolts on front of the booster. This held the master cylinder out just enough to eliminate the drag.
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Agreed, this approach should be fine just as you have proven. However I think my problem is under the dash panel.
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Big shout out to Sheepdip and RichardJ for pointing out early in this thread that I'd need to first check the free play at the pedal. Earlier today, my friend and I found that brake pedal movement immediately moves the rod at the MC. I'm hopeful that adjusting the rod under the dash will bring that booster rod back so that it isn't preloading the MC.
Thanks gentlemen.
-Kevin