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Also the white check valve looking thing is actually the tank over pressure relief. If it isn’t functioning in a stock system it’ll cause problems with the pump not picking up fuel and it can cause fuel to dump out the side of the car past the gas cap.

For fuel pump circuit testing/running the pump with the engine off, jump 12+ power directly from the battery to pin G on the ALDL (computer diagnostic plug) see diagram below. If everything is working correctly this will turn the pump on until power is removed.
Something I discovered about the pump wiring is that the relay setup on the firewall, (part of the ALDl circuit) only supplies power via the ecm to the circuit for 5 seconds to prime the fuel system when you first turn the key on. Once the engine is running the fuel pump is actually powered via the oil pressure switch on top of the back on the engine block.

Just a bit of side info in case you ever have to diagnose power problems with the fuel pump circuit(s). You just never know what you might fight with one that has sat so long. I got lucky and the power side of my system had no issues.