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Old 12-24-2023, 12:26 PM   #86
TX3100Guy
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Join Date: Mar 2022
Location: Lucas, TX
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Re: Eliminate draft tube options

Quote:
Originally Posted by dsraven View Post
when I think back I remember using a couple of old head bolt holes with some home made lifting eyes welded on to the head of the bolt. then a chain between them to lift the engine with. these are pretty heavy engines so using the exhaust/intake bolts may end up breaking a bolt off because of the leverage applied due to the length of the bolt when the manifold is still on there and the engle it is being pulled at. the bolt is made to take strain lateral to the bolt, not at an angle. if you remove the maifolds and attach a lift bracket to a couple of the bolts maybe, because then the strain is placed across a couple of bolts instead of one and the length of the bolt would be shorter, but using a single bolt back there could end up in disaster. even if you know somebody with the shop manual, or can find one online, the manual would likely say "install kent moore tool number Jxxxx in location shown in figure Y" but not show the acftual tool or the actual locations. lol.
anyway, since the head will likely be comng off anyway, possibly remove a front right and a rear left head bolt, grab a cople of bolts like them only longer, make up an L bracket with a hole on each side of the L that will allow the bolt to slip through on one side of the L and a small clevis to slip through hole in the other side, and then attach the bracket to the engine with the "new" head bolts. that way the bolts are taking the strain like a bolt is designed to, from under the bolt head, and the engine leveller will span the distance between the two brackets and connect to the clevises on the L brackets.
dunno if that made sense but its as clear as mud in my head, haha.
I have a piece of an old jackall jack beam that I use for an engine leveller. if is pretty strong and has all those holes in the web of the beam. I can place a clevis on each end that connects via chain to the engine, and then another clevis where it needs to be in the middle somewhere to level the engine when lifted. its a poor man's engine leveller that I made up from scrap before I knew about the fancy pants engine levellers (that work better).
I did a quick search and found this
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-hoist.776413/
I also have some home mades of these
https://www.amazon.ca/OTC-7100-Lifti...cd4328c79d0710

if your engine leveller looks like this you already have the L brackets I was mentioning and could connect them to the "new" head bolts. you don't wanna chance dropping the engine at this point.
https://www.amazon.ca/2000LBS-OKSTEN...7190ca32054677
My plan is to remove all the accessories (intake and exhaust manifold), starter, magneto, wires, and plugs) possibly water pump and thermostat (if painting the block). I have already removed the radiator and core support, currently the drivers side inner and out fender are off, my plan is take the other side off too. It wasn't in my new plan to remove the head, but I'll see what Ernie wants me to do.

I have a leveler like the one you showed from Amazon and it has the L-shaped brackets attached to the chain.

I liked the photo showing the engine attachment points front and back, that looks workable, but again I'm likely to wait on pulling the engine until my new friend gets here.

Again, thanks for the photos, info, and advice. Bob
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