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Old 01-16-2023, 03:36 PM   #1200
Grizz1963
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Rochester, KENT
Posts: 10,484
Re: GRIZZ’s English 2001 S10 Extra Cab 4.3 V6 Truck

Remember this……





Sunday afternoon @nickwheeler and I restarted the search for the reason the heater blower would not power up.

It had stopped me in September when I went out on my road trip. https://forum.retro-rides.org/thread...rip-grizz-2022

I needed to wrap up from under the dashboard, to build and tidy up from inside, till I could complete the dash and all the switchgear. And close it all in.

So on Sunday we started again, revisiting previous checkpoints, testing circuits we had checked before, all with the same outcome.

So…….

Electrons are invisible little bugggerrs.

The search is rarely easy.

So after chasing all options inside the cab and coming up empty handed, we started under the hood and opened the engine fuse boxes.

Chasing the wires from inside.



When Nick stripped back the wiring loom, he removed the air conditioner loom, electric windows, and a various other looms not needed anymore.

The aircon and blower unit both pull a big current and go via a 30 Amp fuse……. Aaaaahhhh, wait. Both are there, then tracking back inside a solitary pink wire was hanging around, and weirdly, one had been cut from the fuse box inside the cab, marked A/C
A bit more messing, poking, head scratching and it became apparent that the blower unit also fed from this ignition driven power via a relay.
So not pink wire, no blower.

We then tried to remove the 10A fuse female connector with the very short cut off wire for another 30 minutes before a thought popped out of my head, formed into these words….. “Could we use the wire for the electric windows and relay it with a 10A fuse, connected to the pink?” The electric window wire was cut off 15mm outside the fuse box, unlike the pink.
Nick agreed and after a lot of time spent on this small issue, he trimmed and soldered a join into it, leaving us with a completed, multi speed switched hot air blower.

RESULT !!!



While he soldered the repair in, I went through my 7 tins and tubs of odd nuts, bolts, fixings, plates and other junk, looking for some springs to use to create some return springs for the gas pedal.
Amazingly, in number 7, I found a pair of springs, origins unknown and cackled with pleasure.
Then using a washing machine drum securing bolt and spacer, I made up a spacer for the spring to hang below the fusebox that had just been re secured.
Nick made up and tacked a small hook onto the gas pedal arm.
Junk makes gold.



And a strong return spring resulted.

Perfect.



So still a few jobs left to get done before MOT can be considered.

Gas pedal stop to be created and added to push against the bulkhead,
Return spring on the clutch pedal, and reduce the plunger on the clutch m/c to drop the clutch pedal an inch or so.
I need to drain the cooling system completely, and refill it with antifreeze.
Bleed the brakes one more time to ensued the system is clean.
And finally set the handbrake.

I also ordered some new black wheel bolts for the rear that has chrome fitted at the moment.


How does that sound ?


MOT time?
__________________
MY BUILD LINK: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...585901]Redneck Express - 1966 C10 Short Fleetside
MY USA ROADTRIPS http://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/...2018-humdinger
IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM MATE.
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