56 Chevy (RIP)

[Snake72]

A little more progress...replaced the lower 4" of the outer door skin. I seam sealed the welds on the inner door bottom and primed it prior to fitting the outer door skin. I'll catch some flack on this but I put a flange on the new lower and used cleco's to fit the panel flat, then SLOWLY welded the seam solid. It did not warp the original steel but the new metal had some mild warpage still. I used a few skim coats of filler and it came out ok. Again, this is patina truck, none of the body work will be perfect and that's alright. I'm currently blending the patchwork into the original paint.

Also sprayed the firewall and pillars with epoxy primer, looks sweet.

I just ordered the rear kit for the corvette suspension from Flat Out Engineering. I haven't received it yet but I have to say, Don the owner of Flat Out is great, he answered the phone, answered all my questions, gave me pointers for install and was not rushed at all. Great customer service, super nice guy!

[dsraven]

If you have other panels to do you can use a clothes iron and a cold wet rag to shrink the high spots. Use the iron to heat up the high spots then the wet rag asap as the iron is removed to cool those hot spots quickly and they will shrink. Less bonds.

[6DoF]

Originally Posted by dsraven

If you have other panels to do you can use a clothes iron and a cold wet rag to shrink the high spots. Use the iron to heat up the high spots then the wet rag asap as the iron is removed to cool those hot spots quickly and they will shrink. Less bonds.

that's an awesome idea, way more control that with a torch

[dsraven]

Wray Shelen sells shrinking discs that go on a disc grinder. He has several sizes. He also has a YouTube on how to use one. Same principle for the clothes iron. Only wanna heat the high spots and only warm enough to create steam when quenched with a cold wet rag.

[Snake72]

Received the Flat Out rear kit and got to work on the frame. The brackets and cross member are very well built, heavy gauge and great welds. The instructions are not great. The diagrams and measurements are basically what I used and the cross member pretty much self locates itself but still the instructions could use some updating. I chose to bolt this in using the supplied bolts in order to have some adjustability or move brackets if needed. I hope the rear ride height is not too high, I have about 3.5 inches of clearance between axle tube and frame. I thought about recessing the entire bracketry into the frame 1" but that would involve a lot of extra work. If I get the truck together and it sits too high then I'll pull the bed off and unbolt everything to rework it. Overall very happy so far, the front end has me a little nervous regarding clearance over the rack and pinion for the LS engine, time will tell!

[Kevin_C]

So I'm running flatout front and rear. this is mine with out any wood or fuel in the bed on 18's. I figure it will come down an inch and I may raise the front a bit. I hope this helps. Your truck looks great. Love the momentum.

[Snake72]

Kevin if my truck sits like yours I'd be happy, I've read through your build several times and have been using various C4 threads for reference and tips through the process

[Snake72]

Pulled all the suspension brackets off for paint and will be on to final assembly this weekend after paint cures. I also cleaned up and painted the rear end, aluminum foil is great for masking stuff like this, cheap and easy.

[6DoF]

did you clear the knuckles? that all looks really good

[Snake72]

No I didn't clear the knuckles, spent some time with a red scotchbrite and they cleaned up great, almost look polished. The half shafts were painted aluminum color and the batwing / differential is rustoleum graphite wheel paint which covers really well.

[Snake72]

Was able to get the rear end installed this weekend. Cleaned up and painted the calipers, the black rotors are just for mock up. Need to pick up a rear sway bar and figure out fuel tank, thinking of going with 60's mustang tank and doing top fill.

[dsraven]

I'm personally not fond of the tank fill in the truck box deal. thats just me and I like to carry the odd thing plus don't wanna go getting up and down from inside the truck box at the gas station while carrying a live fuel nozzle. my filler is on the fender, driver's side. it's your truck so you gotta do what you like. a longer fill tube may lessen the blow back when the tank is full but may also be a little slower to fill. be sure to incorporate a ground wire from the filler to the frame and/or the tank housing due to static caused from the fuel running down the fill tube and also static from the pump hose to the vehicle.
nice tidy work you are doing and thanks for posting up pics. we all like to see what others are doing and how nice their stuff turns out.

[6DoF]

i couldn't bring myself to do a bed floor filler either, same cargo issue. but if you don't ever want anything in the bed cuz the cornering G's will toss it, i also understand that too. less weight, KISS execution, racecar reasons! $10 says with a 'vette IRS he'll not be getting a load of stone

[Snake72]

Yeah this truck wont be carrying anything more than folding chairs and a beer cooler. I don't want a fender fill, just doesn't look right to me on a patina build. The mustang tank has a very rearward filler neck so I wont be crawling up in the bed and its thin so it doesn't hang down low or visible from behind. Plus there's a good chance I'll build a tilt bed floor to access suspension, wiring, fuel pumps, etc so I may have filler completely hidden under the tilt bed. Who knows...gotta focus on front suspension and getting this a roller first.

[dsraven]

I suggest to think about how much work it will be when you go to fill up with fuel. Sitting at the pump with a line up behind you waiting for you to tilt the bed, move your load etc may not be awesome. An easy fill that is quick is always the best. There are some builds that use the stake pocket as a filler. The bed floor filler can also look great, they're just not for me personally.

[Kevin_C]

My current plan is to run a flush mount fill. I was able to find a marine stainless 45 fill. Im also been looking at boat pop up cleats for tie downs. I'll probably change my mind another 5 times though

[6DoF]

dduuuuuuuuddde, the pop-up cleats are a cool idea!

[dsraven]

Pop up cleats are cool but take up some room on the back side. The through bolts are large, they gotta hold a boat in a storm, but you may be able to modify that or find some for a small boat.

[Snake72]

Dude that flush fill and cleats are sweet, I have tons of different bed and tank fill ideas going through my head but that just made the list.

[Snake72]

I also thought about permanently mounting an old beer cooler in a corner of the bed that would either hide a battery or hide a fuel fill nozzle.

[dsraven]

Marine tank fillers usually have a seperate vent so no mess or fumes actually at the filler, which could be next to a swim platform etc.