The Doc & Kim 69 build

[zicc1835]

this week and weekend I was able to get the detent cable installed, core support mocked up install the radiator bend my SS trans cooling lines enough to get them installed proper. Last was the rad hoses seeing I set the motor rearward a bit I had to be creative with the stock top rad hose next couple days ill get some gauges hooked up temporary to monitor temperature and oil pressure I also hooked the fuel line to carb and fed the fuel pump from a gas can eureka

[loudchevy]

Looking good! What radiator is that?

[nicklear36]

Which bender and flare machine are you using for the stainless line?

[zicc1835]

Originally Posted by nicklear36

Which bender and flare machine are you using for the stainless line?

Eastwood flare and I have 2 benders I take some pics tomorrow

[zicc1835]

Originally Posted by loudchevy

Looking good! What radiator is that?

I bought this one on EBay back in 2021 looks like they are no longer available there are others similar though of course now for more $$$$$



3 Row Aluminum Radiator&Shroud&Fan&Thermostat Fit Chevy/GMC C/K 10 20 30 Pickup
Delivered on Wed, Oct 27
Return Window Closed on Nov 26.
3 Row Aluminum Radiator&Shroud&Fan&Thermostat Fit Chevy/GMC C/K 10 20 30 Pickup
US $215.00
Sold by:
wzho31

[zicc1835]

hooked all the essentials today fired the engine off today sounds good oil pressure goord I need to clock the distributor tomorrow Im off a tooth you guys no the drill TDC exhaust valve intake valve in proper position ill get it then out with the timing light and let her run up to temp again I want to spin the trans not sure how to do that with no brakes I have not installed the drive shaft and have a spare drive shaft yoke inserted well that for another day
here you go

https://youtube.com/shorts/QQH4x6e0i...7eDYgVTn42Rq1f

[jaros44sr]

Sounds good Jesse, nice work

Should put some enthusiasm in your build

[zicc1835]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Sounds good Jesse, nice work

Should put some enthusiasm in your build

thanks Jim the journey will take me to the spring God willing

[zicc1835]

well today I messed with the timing moved the distributor a gear tooth fired the motor up timing light on it 6 degrees advanced and let it run up to temp again Im pleased with how it went... what's next ...starter needs shimming install battery box on the frame

[loudchevy]

Sounds great!

[zicc1835]

played with the throttle cable and kick down/detent bracket I like the way it turned out all aftermarket stuff except the accelerator cable so much easier with no fenders to lean over.....with my abused and old back

[jaros44sr]

Nice neat. Work Jesse, I can almost hear it running from here

IMHO I would paint the spaces between the ribs on the VC

Do you use spreader bars on them

[zicc1835]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Nice neat. Work Jesse, I can almost hear it running from here

IMHO I would paint the spaces between the ribs on the VC

Do you use spreader bars on them

I thought about it painting them I might do that …. Not familiar with spreader bar ?? Please school me

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by zicc1835

I thought about it painting them I might do that …. Not familiar with spreader bar ?? Please school me

The factory put a spreader bar under the bolt that held the sheet metal v/c down spreading the downward force of the bolt, but they may not be needed on cast v/c

Also they may not have been installed at the factory, unsure, there were two styles available, long and short

I’ll see if I can find a pic

[zicc1835]

Thanks Jim Yes I now know what you are talking about those VCs did not come with them and I have had them on and off during my start up process I’m not sure if I’m going to paint engine color or engine bay color I’m going with stellar black metallic it’s on caddy’s here is a pic I found on the net some years ago it’s the classic look I’m going

[zicc1835]

tonight I layed out the cross sills and the bed strips so I could determine where the fuel fill will line up .....I want to put a round stainless fuel access hatch over the fuel cap IS 2.5 ROUND so I need like 4 inch access hole
ANY SUGGESTIONS ?
I bought this Boyd welding fuel tank years ago used... never had fuel in it couldn't pass up the deal so I will make it work

[zicc1835]

I mocked up the rear stabilizer bar and the drop down battery box to make sure the cross sills for the bed and stabilizer all clear only wild card now are the bed side braces anyone have pictures or measurements I will look on line for some pictures

[70STOVEBOLT]

Originally Posted by zicc1835

my welder showed up today and we finished up piecing the exhaust together im pleased although I have a lot of leftover parts 2.5 H pipe setups and Lap clamps and assorted pipes I guess ill put it on the shelf.... because you know why next get the motor/ trans buttoned up to get it started

Just curious why you went with shorty headers? If it's only to tuck the exhaust between the frame rails, you can use Chevelle headers that will be the right length and it will eliminate the use of the flex joints. I used Hedman Hedders with the ball flange on my truck.

[zicc1835]

Originally Posted by 70STOVEBOLT

Just curious why you went with shorty headers? If it's only to tuck the exhaust between the frame rails, you can use Chevelle headers that will be the right length and it will eliminate the use of the flex joints. I used Hedman Hedders with the ball flange on my truck.

I did not know that about the Chevelle headers! I know now, and if those double braided stainless flex joints break down I will go in that direction. I prefer the Hedmans for the ball flange they made it much easier to get that angle ... what's great about this board is the constant info sharing ...thank you

[70STOVEBOLT]

No problem. I found that fact out on this board as well.