What Starter Goes On GM Block V0710FSD?

[Loose Screw]

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The number on the old starter casing is Delco-Remy 11072742k2
It's the one that mounts into 2 diagonal holes into the block not the one with the mounting holes on the nose. And the solenoid has both the "S" and the "R" lug connections.

Here's the old one with a new solenoid that didn't do the trick.

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Thanks!

[RustyPile]

Easy peasy solution.. Take the old starter with you to your local auto parts supply.. Show it to 'em and tell the "know nothing" counterperson you want another one like it......

Actually, there are only 2 basic starters, with several variations of each. They must match (mesh) with the flywheel.. One starter for a flywheel with 153 teeth and the other with 168 teeth..

[kwmech]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

Easy peasy solution.. Take the old starter with you to your local auto parts supply.. Show it to 'em and tell the "know nothing" counterperson you want another one like it......

Actually, there are only 2 basic starters, with several variations of each. They must match (mesh) with the flywheel.. One starter for a flywheel with 153 teeth and the other with 168 teeth..

153 tooth starter bolts are straight across and the flexplate is 13''
168 tooth starter bolts are diagonal and the flex plate is 14''

From what I can see in the pics, it appears that you have the larger starter

[Loose Screw]

About 5 times in the past 2 weeks FrankenTruck warned me something was up because it seemed like the Starter/solenoid would hang up once in a while but then start up on a second try. It didn't seem that bad and I thought once it really starts to go out I'll just bang on the starter case or spark it up with a screw driver. None of that worked when it finally pooped out aaaand I hope I didn't fry something out when I tried sparking it up in Circle K's parking lot...you know jumping across the "S" terminal and Battery Positive with a screw driver...I might of made contact to the "P" terminal or ground by mistake....
The dashboard gauges come on with the key and shows No voltage strain when I go to Ignition, almost like an Open.


Ok, so I get my truck home, remove the starter put a new solenoid put the Starter back in, Nothing!

I got a nice fully charged battery in my truck.

Ok, so a week or 2 in and out of this and searching all over the place and Not finding Anything saying "This Is A Direct Replacement" and bugging the heck out of the kids at AutoZone and O'Reilly's I come up with AutoZone DL 3508S...Slap it into Frank and the Starter/Solenoid do Nothing, no clicking, no thumping, no nothing...But Now when I turn the key to "Ign" all gauges strain and drop Real Low like there is a really bad short!
Again, my battery is fully charged!

Sooo, my next step I'm thinkin is to take the new DL3508S and have it tested...
I'll also be looking at a DL3510S, pictures look pretty much the same.

Man, I hope it's Not something else I dinked when I was trying to bump the solenoid..........cutout switch (if it even has one), voltage regulator, etc, etc.....

[Loose Screw]

Better Comparison Pictures of similar AutoZone Starters.

Starter 3508.jpg

starter 3510 2.jpg

[57taskforce]

As long as the starter you use is for the flywheel/flexplate you have, you should be fine. The exception to this is the 67-72 manual transmission trucks which have the starter mounted into the cast iron bellhousing instead of the block. They are a totally different mounting design and will be obvious when you see them. An example here is My 72 K20 which has a 4 speed with a 168 tooth flywheel, but I swapped a later square body aluminum bell housing and used the much smaller profile vortec 350 starter from a 96-02 350 equipped GMT-400 truck/suv.

This is one of the best things about the company formerly known as GM. Lots of things from different years will interchange and work perfectly fine. The parts stores should be able to tell you what the starter you are buying is for as far as tooth count goes…. I guess that’s if the the counter monkeys are properly trained.

[RustyPile]

Well after dinking around with Autozone, the problem is, you're just guessing at the problem and throwing parts at it while hoping you've guessed right..

Let's do some proper diagnosing.. To start with, you'll need either a 12V test light or a voltmeter, preferably a voltmeter.. Put yourself in a position on the floor to test the voltage at the ignition switch and other devices under the dash.. Probe the big red wire on the ignition switch, you're looking for "always hot" 12 volts.. If you have voltage there, you'll need a helper for the next step. Disconnect the purple wire from the smaller post on the starter.. Connect one lead of the voltmeter to that wire and ground the other lead.. Turn the ignition switch to the "START" position.. If you have voltage there, THEN you can look at a defective starter.. If you don't have voltage there, go back under the dash and with the ignition switch again in the "START" position, check for voltage on the purple wire at the back of the ignition switch.. If you don't have voltage, the ignition switch is bad..

If you do have voltage, and an automatic transmission, place the transmission in park, and again turn the ignition switch to the start position.. Check for voltage on BOTH terminals of the neutral safety switch.. If you have voltage on only one of the terminals, either the switch is out of adjustment OR it is bad... If you have voltage on both terminals, you need to find the open in the purple wire after it leaves the neutral safety switch.. The most probably location for this open/loose connection is the main bulkhead connector on the firewall..

Easy way to check that is "dismount" the fuse box and check for voltage on that purple wire again.. If you have voltage there, check for voltage on the "other half" of the connector located in the engine bay side of that big connector... If you have voltage there, the purple wire is broken or has a loose connection somewhere between that bulkhead connector and the connector where it connects to the starter... If you don't have voltage there, you have a bad connection on the purple wire terminals..

[dmjlambert]

Yes, diagnosing is probably going to be the answer. I have not been the best at diagnosis and I had "starter" trouble and changed my starter, ate up my flex plate and spent all kinds of time chasing the problem. I ended up putting the old starter back on. I'm not saying you have the same problem I had, but the problem could be with several different things. In my case it was bad battery cables. I don't know if we've seen pictures of this part of your truck, but if you have this type of emergency repair terminal, change out your battery cables and do not use this type of terminal. Too much and embarrassing info in this other thread, but lesson learned: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=734496

I really dislike those emergency repair terminals. Don't know if you have them, but if you do, I hate yours, too.

[MJN]

So, just for fun I looked up the number on your starter
1107274 is for a1963 409 Hi Perf solid lifter passenger car engine
2 K 2 is the date code, 1962, October 2

And what I see in my book for the engine code is
V= Flint, Mi
0710 = July 10
FSD= Truck, 1984 350 160hp, 700R4 trans; 1994 truck 350 210hp, manual trans, 1997 G van, 350 255 hp automatic, LPG fuel

[Loose Screw]

Originally Posted by MJN

So, just for fun I looked up the number on your starter
1107274 is for a1963 409 Hi Perf solid lifter passenger car engine
2 K 2 is the date code, 1962, October 2

And what I see in my book for the engine code is
V= Flint, Mi
0710 = July 10
FSD= Truck, 1984 350 160hp, 700R4 trans; 1994 truck 350 210hp, manual trans, 1997 G van, 350 255 hp automatic, LPG fuel

Thank You, Thank You, Thank You!!!
Where can I get this decoder you are using?

I owe you a Whataburger if you're ever my way!

[MJN]

Originally Posted by Loose Screw

Thank You, Thank You, Thank You!!!
Where can I get this decoder you are using?

I owe you a Whataburger if you're ever my way!

Books and more books-this one is one of my go-to's, it might not have everything but its a great resource.

https://www.amazon.com/Catalog-Casti.../dp/1880524139

The Chevy small block suffix code book is another good one to have.

[kwmech]

What I'm reading here is the fact that you throwing starters at your truck has nothing to do with you starting your engine. You have another issue that needs to be addressed. Follow Rustys diagnosis

[Loose Screw]

Originally Posted by MJN

Books and more books-this one is one of my go-to's, it might not have everything but its a great resource.

https://www.amazon.com/Catalog-Casti.../dp/1880524139

The Chevy small block suffix code book is another good one to have.

Thanks!

[Loose Screw]

Originally Posted by kwmech

What I'm reading here is the fact that you throwing starters at your truck has nothing to do with you starting your engine. You have another issue that needs to be addressed. Follow Rustys diagnosis

Yes Amigo, I will be backing up here and try and follow Rusty's procedures. I've had other things come up but will get back into it when I have a chance.....