Horn not shutting off

[Pinkdubai]

Working on my 1967 C-10 horn assembly. It is an aftermarket setup from Forever Sharp. I’ve looked through a number of posts related to the horn assembly but haven’t seen my specific issue yet. The problem I’m having is the turn signal cam compresses far enough down on the spring to touch the turn signal lever and screw when tightening the steering wheel hub. Once this occurs, the horn honks continuously I don’t feel like I’m over tightening at around 30 pounds of torque.

Would replacing the spring make a difference? I have also thought about covering the signal lever with rubber so when the compressed you don’t have metal touching metal. Maybe there is a spacer I’m missing.

Appreciate thoughts on the best way to resolve this issue.

[RustyPile]

Guessing here, but going by the single picture you posted, the problem is the "adaptor kit" you're using is wrong for the application..

The large spring is simply to put preload on the shaft top bearing.. The canceling cam gives the spring something to push against. Many aftermarket steering wheel adaptor kits are poorly designed.. The hub should bottom out against the shoulder on the shaft just below the splines.. Most of them, like yours, do not...

['68OrangeSunshine]

I have an issue currently with the Horn Button making contact at the wrong time or all times. '68 C/10 Stepside. Manual column. Three Spoke Wheel.
I first disconnected the Horn from the Horn Relay, but the constant clicking drove me nuts, so I pulled the plug from the Relay too.
I think the problem stems from an old upper bearing pack in the steering column. It's missing at least one ball bearing, maybe more.
[Truck is showing ~ 406,000 on the odometer.]
Also the screw holding the Turn Signal Lever to the T/S Switch fell out, and the Lever is loose on the dash.
To make turn signals, I use my Hand Signals. At night, I wear an orange safety glove with white reflective taping on it.
When I'm done refinishing my OEM Wheel in Fawn paint, I will try a new Upper Bearing Pack and re-attach the T/S lever.
If it still honks when not wanted, I'll try the Lower Bearing Pack, but that requires pullimg the whole column out.

[Pinkdubai]

I checked the adapter and it does bottom out below the splines but only has 0.15 inch clearance to the turn signal. The cancelling cam is also 0.15 inches which forces it down on the turn signal lever resulting in the horn going off. Added another picture to show how tight it is without the cam and spring.