Axle Dilemma

[THI]

I recently purchased a 1988 Blazer that spent 35 years in the Seattle Washington area, now it resides in Michigan. The odometer reads 70,000 and it is obvious it has been rolled over at least once - you start it up cold and it fogs for mosquitoes and the blue smokes continues even after it is warmed up. I suspect valve guides and rings, but that is a winter project.

I know that the axles will be just as whipped as the engine and will need attention. On that front I have several options. The current gears are 2.73 and it really bogs with the 700-R4 and 33" tires so the gears must go! I have two sets of axles at my disposal - both sets are 8 lug 3/4-ton and 1-ton.

The 3/4-ton set are off of a 1985 K20 10-bolt front and 9.5" 14-bolt SF rear with 4.10 gears. The front axle is completely rebuilt (ball joints/tie rod ends/seals and such) and the rear had the same treatment with a Yukon clutch type posi added.

The 1-ton set is a Dana 60 front with a complete rebuild - including new axle shafts with 35-spline inners & outers, Trac-Loc carrier and Warn Premium 35-spline hubs. The rear is a 10.5 14-bolt FF with a factory Gov-Loc - both with 3.73 gears.

This Blazer will not be used for towing or off-roading. It will be an occasional use vehicle, car shows and going out for ice cream. I will once in a while go into a field as I have 55 acres that is just calling for a little fun with it! It will keep the stock suspension (no lift) and I am going to 31" tires and will eventually do a 6.0 LS swap with a 4L80E (I have a 2004 2500HD I bought for the drive train).

Here is the dilemma - Do I put a set of the axles I have on the Blazer, but I do not have any extra 8 bolt rims and tires. Do I convert the rebuilt 10-bolt front to a six-lug hub (I have all the parts) and rebuild the rear with the extra set of 4.10 gears I have to match the front along with a Detroit TruTrac I have (I do have a complete set of 5 15x8 Rallys I can put tires on) and stock 10-bolts should be strong enough for anything I would do with the Blazer. Another option Would be the 3/4-ton axles - would need to source some rims and tires and a conversion u-joint for the rear. There is also the 1-ton option which would require tires/rims the same as the 3/4-ton but would also require driveshaft modifications - shortening and a conversion u-joint (or even a SLE on the t-case and a new rear driveshaft.

The 1-ton option would have the best cool factor with the Dana 60 up front and Full Floater in back (way overkill for what I am doing), the half-ton stock axles and rally rims would have a nice, finished look with 31x10.5 -R15 tires. The 3/4-ton axles are the easiest swap but would still have the rim/tire issue.