65 Fairlane pro-touring build

[Ol Blue K20]

As usual Vic, I'm very impressed. Such awesome workmanship.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

As usual Vic, I'm very impressed. Such awesome workmanship.

Thanks, Dale. Hope all is well out your way.

[Ol Blue K20]

Thanks Vic, I'm seem to be doing ok right now.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Thanks Vic, I'm seem to be doing ok right now.

Good deal! I always worry about you during fire season.

The steering column is mocked up. The included front mount fit in the factory location with no mods. All I had to do was clock the Microsteer unit per the directions and snug down the bolts. I may trim some of the cowl area where the fresh air vent is located to give it some additional clearance. The folks at FR include a nice little swivel ball that covers the opening where the shaft passes thru the firewall. Before the carpet goes in, I'll pack some 3M Strip Caulk on the inside to seal out the elements. (For all the times it will get driven in the rain. )

[SCOTI]

Watching this install intently to learn about the new pwr steering option.

No beads for the firewall to help strengthen things as well as vibration resistance.

*EDIT*
Just re-read & noted the mention of material thickness vs the limits of your bead roller.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Watching this install intently to learn about the new pwr steering option.

No beads for the firewall to help strengthen things as well as vibration resistance.

*EDIT*
Just re-read & noted the mention of material thickness vs the limits of your bead roller.

Yep, the 14 gauge is bit much for my Lo Buck Tools roller. I plan to cut out some decorative panels and glue them to the firewall and the flat sides of the inner fenders to give them a faux bead rolled appearance. Should help with vibration resistance too - hopefully.

The Flaming River microsteer unit came with a controller that accepts a VSS input from the transmission. So, the steering effort is supposed to vary with vehicle speed. More bells and whistles than my brain can process so I'm learning too. What is that saying about flying a plane while building it?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

Yep, the 14 gauge is bit much for my Lo Buck Tools roller. I plan to cut out some decorative panels and glue them to the firewall and the flat sides of the inner fenders to give them a faux bead rolled appearance. Should help with vibration resistance too - hopefully.

The Flaming River microsteer unit came with a controller that accepts a VSS input from the transmission. So, the steering effort is supposed to vary with vehicle speed. More bells and whistles than my brain can process so I'm learning too. What is that saying about flying a plane while building it?

That's a cool feature.

[Vic1947]

I'm pedaling as fast as I can.

The Wilwood compact master cylinders will have to be recessed to clear the back of the driver side head. The new firewall is actually a bit forward of where the OEM firewall sat. This will necessitate a box that moves the brake/clutch pedal assembly rearward. Wilwood makes one but it isn't deep enough. So, I'll have to spend some time on the mill whittling one out. You can see the approximate location with the drawing superimposed.

Unfortunately, the tunnel side will interfere with the electronic gas pedal. Looks like I'll have to trim one of the upper tabs for it to clear. Once I get the recessed panel built, I'll see what I'm dealing with and whether I can reposition the tab with adhesive. I really don't think there would be an issue using just two tabs, but you always wonder if there was a reason the factory set it up the way it is.

[62c30]

Looking good. Is that a little rust in the lower cowl?

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by 62c30

Looking good. Is that a little rust in the lower cowl?

I hope not. I think I've patched most of the rusted areas. One thing I do, depending on the situation, is use panel adhesive to glue a sheet metal patch over an area with tiny pinholes. (Next to the orange arrow in photo below.) I have no qualms about doing this on the side that doesn't show. Any adhesive that extrudes out the other side can be ground down and body worked. I have absolutely no luck MIG welding up pinholes. If you're bound and determined to bust out the welder, all you can do is cut the entire panel out and weld in a replacement piece that extends well beyond the rusty spots. Sometimes I can use a copper backer and get it to weld a pinhole cleanly without burning back about a half mile. But hands down, the best way to deal with small, lacy areas is to glue a patch over them - IMHO.