Another carb help...

[Kalums]

Originally Posted by 72SB

aside from mismatched timing marks and pointer, OP had a not stock, but perfectly fine, Edelbrock carb with non-stock, cut, fuel line feeding it that had a soft fuel line to filter than to carb that was sketchy and leaked.

A more secure fuel line routing and part specific to OP's carb was shown to eliminate his fire starter setup

OP did not have a "stock" setup where a pre-bent hard line went from FP to carb.....so a better fuel line and filter was suggested to OP for "his" current setup.

Hard line from FP is 3/8, I'm replacing with a new hard line from FP straight to carb inlet and putting a new FF under the cab where the "Travel Tanks" valve is (effectively bypassing the valve) . So fuel tank pick up to FF, FF to hard line to FP, new hard line from FP straight up to carb inlet after I take off the hose barb. No more clandestine meetings with flames or extinguishers. 👍

[Dashman]

It sounds like you're moving along well. Good for you!

Kelsey Hayes trailer brake controller. I think it's nostalgic and it always worked well for us, but I disconnected it as I have two other trucks that I can haul with. Ours had a spring type manually variable resistor in the engine bay. Modern controllers just use the brake light circuit to add voltage with the application of the brake pedal. If you're going to be hauling some, just go with a modern controller.

The distributor gear partially engages before the oil pump rod. You have to engage the oil pump rod with a long screw driver and turn it, so that the engagement happens at the same time. As it slips into the gear and rod, the rotor should rotate clockwise and point to #1. Assuming you are at TDC on the compression stroke on the #1 cylinder.

Good luck!