55.2-59 Need VIN help

[cigar-]

I have an opportunity on a 1957 GMC C30 truck. Of course it has no title! The seller has very little to offer me so I am starting with the VIN situation.

He has sent me a photo of a plaque that contains a serial number and weight information. See photo attached/enclosed. My internet search tells me the VIN is located in three places on the frame. "IF" that's the truth, we know where to look.

What I need to know is how many characters are in the VIN for a 1957 truck? Is there a standard prefix? Like do all VINs begin with a series of numbers and letters? example 1S23Bxxxxxxxxx

[dsraven]

the gm heritage center would be a great place to contact. they can send out a package with all the options it came with once they id where to look for a vin
this site may have the info on where to look. pick a year and check the manual index. likely all the same model of truck, say task force (55.2 to 59), would have the vin in the same place. driver's door pillar usually with a tag that is simply rivetted onto the metal.

https://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.co...esto/index.htm

this is the page for a 59

https://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.co...to/59tsn02.htm

[cigar-]

Thank you for the reply. Nice source for information. But.....they have assembled nothing for 1957 trucks at all so I cannot get any help there. I will hope and continue.

Maybe this cool old truck I found is not worth the work. I hate to see it get crushed!

[dsraven]

the serial number on the door tag is the vin. they didn't have 17 digit vins back in the day.

this may help

https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/series.htm

or this

https://talk.classicparts.com/thread...n-frame.13769/

[dsraven]

and another

https://www.oldgmctrucks.com/page0290.html

what does your truck look like, good shape, not so good?
you coiuld check with the local authorities to see what can be done if there is no title. I'm from Canada so not sure how the different staes handle it.

[franken]

The Nevada DMV website should have the info on getting a title. Nothing related to other states that the comments will have mean anything in your state.

[gmc jr van]

They did not stamp the “VIN” on the frame until 1967.
The 1957 300 series had no prefix and 9 characters are in the “VIN” unless they built over 10 thousand trucks (303 C T 10000) at Oakland. The truck is the sixty first 300 model built at Oakland California for 1957.

It should have a Parts ID Plate on the glove compartment door.

[cigar-]

https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/series.htm - didn't help as it's for Chevy trucks and not GMC

https://talk.classicparts.com/thread...n-frame.13769/ - helped a LOT! confirmed that the VIN system back then was not as it is now (as many digits). The serial number tells me its what should have been used as it describes the truck I am looking at.

https://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.co...esto/index.htm - does not have any 1957 truck information....no help


https://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.co...to/59tsn02.htm - again....it's for Chevy trucks not GMC. The coding system doesn't match up. The Chevy models are 4 digit while the GMC are one letter and two numbers. The one I am looking at is a C30.

Thank you all for your help. It is of great value for me to decide on this project.

[mr48chev]

Read what GMC jr van wrote ten times and forget what the internet BS artists say. They always claim that there are serial numbers aka vin on 49/59 Frames especially GMC but I have never seen one.

Print that photo and take it to the Nevada dmv and ask what it takes to get a title in Nevada. If there is an old license plate on the truck get a photo of that

If you do buy it do not under any circumstances remove that door post tag for any reason. That original tag with original rivets with original paint around it means that that part of the truck was never molested and starts are getting real hardcore about not approving one that obviously has that the tag removed even to repaint the truck. Also only that stamped serial number means any thing to the DMV on the tag although other info verify the info on the tag.

If you do buy it I suggest printing out or getting the Nevada bill of sale form and going to a Notary to have the signatures notarized. Or at least use that form. https://dmv.nv.gov/pdfforms/vp104.pdf

Engine serial numbers never match door post numbers on older rigs. They tell you that the engine was built for that year and size of truck but never match on Chevy or GMC trucks.
If you do an engine swap, transmission swap or rear end swap before having it inspected get bills of sale or receipts for those parts that show you obtained them legally and in good faith.

Some interesting reading here. https://dmv.nv.gov/pdfforms/vp022.pdf

[cigar-]

mr48chev.....

Valuable information you gave. I have tinkered with old cars for a while and always make sure my butt is covered. NO shady Bill of Sale.....funny signatures, etc.

I have called the Nevada DMV about a bond title and the agent told me it's not worth it. I am wondering how and why she said that!

The tag on the truck will not be removed. I have a 54 5 window that was redone and the original tag remained!

We will see how this goes as I inch forward.

[gmc jr van]

Originally Posted by cigar-

The Chevy models are 4 digit while the GMC are one letter and two numbers. The one I am looking at is a C30.

From 1955-1959 GMC truck series had 3 digits and some had one or more prefix F, M, S, PM and W. Starting in 1960 GMC truck series had 4 digits and prefixes. 1000 ½ ton, K1000 ½ ton 4/4.

The C30 would be a Chevy 1 ton model starting in 1960.

The truck you are looking at is a 1½ ton

[mr48chev]

Reading this the actual "hassle" is having to go to Carson City or conduct most of your quest there rather than at a field office. If I read your address right and read the map right that is a 50 mile run for you and my guess is that you probably go there reasonably often to shop anyhow. The hassles are listed here https://dmv.nv.gov/regbonded.htm

Big hassles if you live in the Vegas metro area as you either have to drive clear upstate or try to do it all by phone. The wait period while they do the research may be a hassle for some as it is not going to be a one day deal from the looks of it.

If the truck is close enough to run over and check and the seller lets you check it over I would go through all the hiding places looking for an old registration slip, Insurance card or anything else that might show previous ownership. I drug a "No title" S-10 Blazer home 15 or so years ago because I wanted the rear end and was going to chop the hulk up in small pieces to haul to the scrap yard a few at a time and when I flipped the body over and the glove box popped open and out fell a stack of papers and right in the middle of the stack was the title. An hour later I was at my friend's wrecking yard and he was unloading the body from my trailer with his forklift and sticking it in his crusher row. Bad part was that the rear end had a blown ring and pinion missing a lot of teeth and the gas tank was missing. I gave the axle to a former student who needed it for her son's S-10 4x4 that had a bent axle housing.

I'd open up the bonded title info in the link and decide one way or the other about if it is doable or too many flaming hoops to jump through. I don't think that the bond for 1-1/2 times the original list price of the truck is a big issue as that is a bond on about 4000 at most. Three years goes by fast when most of us are building a truck. I've heard about a couple of people who bought previously stolen vehicles who lost them when somehow the people who held title to the rig when it was stolen tracked it down and it had not been properly run though the system. I've never heard of or known of anyone who had someone show up and lay claim to the vehicle that they had a bonded title to though. It sounds like Nevada makes that a pretty safe thing anyhow.