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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Jose Ca.
Posts: 3,354
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How to remove the cab?
Well I am getting ready to take the cab off of the frame and take it to the blasters. Beside taking everything out of the inside of the cab how would I remove it from the frame itself?
Thanks |
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#2 |
PROJECT 7DEUCE
![]() Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: GRANTS PASS OR
Posts: 21,606
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4 friend's and a case of beer...
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Beeville, Texas
Posts: 1,943
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There's four main cab mounts, two right in the middle of both driver's and passenger's side floorpans, and two in the back of the cab, under the gas tank. If your cab has never been taken off, it will have small spot welds on the head of the bolts in the floorpan, those'll have to be grinded off so you can remove the bolt. Just get under the truck with a 1/2" drive ratchet and a socket(don't remember what size) and a can of WD40(might be rusty) and remove all four nuts and you should be able to lift the cab off. Make sure you have everything unhooked from the firewall and cab before lifting it. There should also be a ground strap on one or both sides under the cab, remove those too.
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RJD 1984 Chevrolet C30 welding truck 454/SM465 1977 GMC C15 pickup 350/TH350 1970 Chevrolet C20 pickup 350/TH400 1970 Chevrolet K20 Suburban 454/TH350 1969 GMC 8500 478M V6/5 spd winch truck |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Jose Ca.
Posts: 3,354
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Do I have to unhook the cab from the fenders as well?
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#5 |
Fabricate till you "puke"
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Ill
Posts: 9,402
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If it were an Illinois truck, i would say back up @ about 40 mph , & slam the brakes.....that should take the cab right off! Do Not forget the seat belt tho!
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69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears.... |
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#6 |
Insert funny comment.
![]() Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Concord NC
Posts: 621
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Would be best to remove the front clip.... at least remove all the bolts that hold it on!
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------------ - Mark -My Build Thread... -68 C10, LT1 - Undergoing Frame off resto -86 IROC-Z T72 turbo 355, M6 -70 Camaro http://www.iroc-ss.com |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Jose Ca.
Posts: 3,354
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Ok that brings up a new question how do I remove the front clip. Warning rookie at work here
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#8 |
PROJECT 7DEUCE
![]() Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: GRANTS PASS OR
Posts: 21,606
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In order to remove the clip you need to start buy pulling the wiper's off then the cowl (screw's along the top and under hood seal area with a bolt undr the front door area and a bolt in the top fender area) Once you got it removed you can see 2 bigger bolt's holding on the fender's leave these on untill you remove the lower bolt on the bottom of the fender inbetweeen the inner fender well and cab. remove the bumper and 2 front body bolt's located under the radiator..Next remove the large bolt midway up the back of the inner fender and then the fuse block junction (has a little bolt dead center).. Make sure all ground's from motor to sheet metal and sheet metal to frame are disconnected.. Finall with some friend's remove the 2 bigger bolt's the you found under the cowl at the top of the fender and if I have not forgotten anything if should lift off... On a side note you can remove the hood to make it a little lighter....
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#9 | |
72 BB C30 Super LongHorn
![]() Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Chavez Ravine
Posts: 1,606
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![]() Here's where I am at with taking mine off: Consider first where you'll be placing it once you get it up , off , & then to where it will rest! I was looking at mine with your thoughts in mind during the past week. I am considering jacking up the truck a small bit to get it on Jack Stands. I will then as well get the cab supported on blocks of 4X4 wood or sea saws with 4X4 extensions underneath the cab(or any other ideas along this line) in 4 corners so as to let the chassis down from underneath it; I am hoping that this will allow enough clearance from the frame/chassis to pull the chassis straight out from under it leaving the cab up in the air. I might also consider taking the wheels off mine to get even more clearance-allowing the frame to be lower from the cab.... The cab will overhang the frame on both pass/driver sides, and even in the back panel of the cab, so clearing the frame is a HI concern. I have also considered going from left to right but I think the angles will be against me in succeeding this way! How to move it around after you get it on the ground?? I am taking from another board post on frame dolly ideas/designs. For me, Fabricating something along this line will help me roll the cab around the yard, onto the trailer, or wherever so as not to be confined to it's initial resting pointe once off the cab... ![]() ![]()
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72 BB C/30 Longhorn Super HO72 No-Spin, #'s matching, Tilt, Tach, AC, AM/FM HO72 build : http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=714492 2017 SS ![]() Last edited by RPOZ11; 07-24-2004 at 11:49 AM. |
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#10 |
ready for reassembly
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Barrie ONT, Canada
Posts: 413
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when I took my old cab off, which was junk, I just rolled it off the side onto a couple tires, but since your's is good, I wouldn't recomend that method
![]() The simplest way is with a guy on each corner, lift it and walk it over the back tires. Oh and btw, get those same four guys to help take the box off before you attempt this :p Jason
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stock 71 4x4 2003 Jeep Liberty, rocky mountain edition I'm obsessed, and wouldn't have it any other way! |
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#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Central PA....In the Berg of Nisbet
Posts: 790
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I use my loader tractor an acouple slings................Works good and NOTHING get busted up.
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'72 K-20 EFI'ed 250 Inline/4spd stake body, Farm Truck '71 C-20 Cummins Diesel Powered, In storage thanks to $5.00 diesel! '69 3500 GMC 305V-6/4spd, Still under reconstruction.......... Inlines Rule! 6 soldiers standing is better than 8 laying down!!!!!!!! |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 865
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I used the 6 guys and several cases of beer technique. It worked for the bed right off the bat. I had to removed the doors to lighten up the cab enough. I setup some cinderblocks and 2X4s to set my cab on. This let me get up under it very well. It also helped me load it on my trailer by myself. That was tricky, but because it was already off of the floor, it was just a matter of leverage, and using a furniture dolly. I should be creating a website soon for my frame off. Feel free to email if you need any tips.
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#13 |
Insert funny comment.
![]() Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Concord NC
Posts: 621
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An engine hoist(cherrypicker) turns it into a two man job. Thats how I have moved my cab around several times.
__________________
------------ - Mark -My Build Thread... -68 C10, LT1 - Undergoing Frame off resto -86 IROC-Z T72 turbo 355, M6 -70 Camaro http://www.iroc-ss.com |
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#14 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Kelowna BC Canada
Posts: 481
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heres what i used a Homemade a-frame
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: skamokawa, WA, USA
Posts: 527
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That looks like an awesome swingset Robo bot!!
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#16 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Storm Lake, Ia
Posts: 1,449
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I finally got to use my cab puller mounted on my cherry picker and it works great.
pulled 2 cabs with no problems all alone. pics of use and actual puller mounted on picker
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