Calling on Blazer, help with questions please

[71swb4x4]

I am calling on a Blazer tomorrow. I need some help with proper questions to ask.

Here is what I have so far:
Why are you selling it?
Did you replace any metal when you repainted it? If so what did you use as replacement (repop, NOS, used)?
How many miles have you driven it since you finished it?
Is it the original color?
Has it ever been in an accident?
How long have you owned it?
Any cracks on the top or hatch?
Are there any leaks (drivetrain)?


I know on the pickup cabs the cab supports can get pretty rusty. What areas are there to watch for as far as under tub rust on the Blazers?

[Gee_Emm]

The bed floor and windsheild frame are the most important areas to look at. The rest can be fixed easily. If you go to look at it make sure you pull back the rubber around the windsheild to check for rust underneath. When I buy trucks the last thing on my mind is the mileage, even when I bought my Jimmy I had brought it home already before I even thought to check the odometer. The sheetmetal on these trucks is the hard part, the rest comes easy.

[A few 72's]

2WD or 4WD? (condition of 4WD drive train?)
Would check out Gee Emm's post to know that anything can be fixed and also look at some of the post in the blazer section.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php3?t=59412

A few of the cosmetic type questions, Some for parts that may be harder find at times.
Soft top? (Condition/how old?)
Hard top? Double wall or single wall? (single wall bolts from the top down and seems to be prefered if the inside rear side panels are present.)
Is all of the hardware present for the hatch?
What type of seating? Org buckets / Is back seat present.
Condition of rear side pannels if present?

[bouncytruck]

If it is 4wd, check the drive train to see if it is original. I have seen a large number on e-bay with NP208 transfer cases. My '69 has an NP203. It seems to be replacements for the 3-speed/Dana 20 combos.

If pre-'72 4wd with front disk brakes, check the front axel an see if it was a direct swap or some jimmy-rigged set up. If the truck is lifted (4wd), check the lift and make sure it looks safe. No blocks in the front, no custom welding. Also, check the durning radius in both directions. Lifted trucks often loose their turning radius, especially if the steering arm wasn't replaced with one for the lift.

The body is the most important. Most mechanical can easily be fixed or replaced.